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Mt. Tanzawa (丹沢山)

April 8, 2008

Last updated: Oct. 23, 2019

Mt. Tanzawa is a wonderful series of rolling hills located just west of Yokohama. The night views of Tokyo are incredible, as is the unobstructed view of Mt. Fuji.

tanzawa

The hike: From the bus stop, hike up the road past some houses and Japanese inns. The road will split after about 10 minutes or so. Take the left fork. Initially a forest road, the path will eventually turn into a proper hiking trail. During the first 90 minutes or so, you’ll pass by a number of ‘teahouses’ which sell basic refreshments during the summer hiking season. Horiyama-no-ie (堀山の家), is the first actual mountain hut in which you can stay. Click here to access the hut website. There’s also a trail junction at this hut, but keep going straight, towards Tou-no-dake (塔ノ岳). After 20 more minutes another trail will come in on the right, but ignore it and keep going up and up. There’s a seemingly endless array of wooden stairs along this point, and you’ll keep seeing them all the way to the top of the ridge line. Mt. Fuji should start coming into view just behind you if the weather is clear. Around 90 minutes from the hut at Horiyama you should be sitting on top of Tou-no-dake. Take a well deserved break and check into the hut if you’ve lost your energy or if it’s late. You’ve got about 2 hours of up & down ridge hiking in order to reach the high point of the mountain range. Please note that no camping is allowed anywhere on the mountain, so be prepared to fork over some money to stay in the huts. The hut on top of Tou-no-dake, named Sonbutsu-sansou (尊仏山荘) costs 5000 yen with dinner or 4000 yen without meals. Anyway, regardless of whether you stay here or not, you’ve got to traverse the entire Tanzawa ridge in order to say you’ve truly done it. Continue on the path that goes behind the hut, which leads to the true summit of Mt. Tanzawa（丹沢山). It’ll take about an hour or so to reach the top, where you’ll be greeted with another hut. This one is called Miyama-sansou (みやま山荘) and their website can be found here. If you’re a sucker for punishment (like I was) and want to traverse to the highest peak in the range all in one day, then take the trail to the left of the hut towards Hiru-ga-take (蛭ケ岳). It should take another hour or so from Mt. Tanzawa. I timed my arrival perfectly, as the sun was sinking just behind Mt. Fuji when I arrived on the doorstep of the hut. There are also tons of deer in this area who are looking for free handouts of food. The website for Hiru-ga-take Sansō (蛭ケ岳山荘) is here. The night views of Tokyo from here are out-of-this-world, especially on a clear winter night. If you stay at this hut, then you’ve got a much shorter 2nd day compared with staying at the other huts. Continue on the trail that leads past the hut. Your goal for the day is Higashino (東野), where there’s a bus back to civilization. It should take about 3 hours from Hiru-ga-take. Just follow the signposts and turn left at the 2nd trail junction you come to. The entire mountain is lacking in water, so make sure that you bring plenty. Even in the huts there isn’t any fresh water and you have to buy overpriced bottled water! Check the bus schedule at any of the huts before departing on the 2nd day.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but bring some light crampons during the winter because of lingering ice in shady areas.

Access: From the northern exit of Shibusawa station (渋沢駅), take a bus bound for Ookura (大倉). The bus takes only 15 minutes and costs only 200 yen. Alternatively, you can grab a taxi to the trailhead for around 1500 yen. Click here for the bus schedule.

Map: Click here

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change 1383m)

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Comments: 21 Comments

Yatsu-ga-take (八ヶ岳)

April 6, 2008

Last updated: Feb 20, 2025

Yatsu-ga-take, or ‘8 peaks’, is a volcanic mountain range nestled on the border of Nagano & Yamanashi prefectures.  The area is teeming with hikers all year round, and is one of the premier winter climbing destinations in Japan.

The hike: From the bus stop, hike up the forest road for about an hour until you reach Minoto-sanso (美濃戸山荘).  You can try hitching a ride if any cars come along the gravel road.  The trailhead starts at the end of the forest road, and you’ve got two options.  Take the right fork toward Gyoja Hut (行者小屋).  It’ll take about 2 hours or so of hiking on a well-marked path to reach the busy hut.  Drop your pack off here unless you plan on staying at the hut on top of Aka-dake (which doesn’t allow camping).   Take the trail that goes behind the hut and follow the signs to Aka-dake (赤岳).  Again, the trail is well-used and easy to follow.  You should reach the rocky ridge line in about 90 minutes or so.  Once you hit the ridge, turn right to reach Aka-dake.  There are two huts along the way, one just a short distance from the summit.  On a clear day the views are exhilirating, and you’ll probably be sharing the summit with dozens & dozens of other folk.  Traverse over the summit and take a right at the first junction, toward Amida-dake (阿弥陀岳).  The trail drops to a saddle, climbs briefly over Naka-dake (中岳), and drops again to another junction.  Amida-dake will be directly in front of you.  It’s about a 30-minute climb to the summit, if you’re feeling energetic.  Otherwise, take a right to descend back down to Gyoja Hut.  You can either camp or stay at the hut here, but I recommend hiking an extra 40 minutes on an easy trail over to Akadake-kosen (赤岳鉱泉).  This is a much nicer area to pitch a tent.  Plus, the hut has its own hot spring bath!  The next day you can either head back to Minodoguchi via a trail that leads away from the hut, or you could do a different loop hike, taking in Yoko-dake (横岳) and Iou-dake (硫黄岳) before heading back to civilization.

When to go: This hike can be done year round if you’ve got an ice axe and crampons.  Despite it’s easy access, the peak does claim its fair share of fatalities, so use caution when climbing up and around the rocky ridge line.

Access: From Chino station (茅野駅), take a bus bound for Minotoguchi (美濃戸口) and get off at the last stop.  Click here for the bus schedule.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~1419m)

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Mt. Chōkai (鳥海山）

March 29, 2008

Last updated: Feb 17, 2025

Mt. Chōkai is a phenomenally beautiful volcanic peak nestled snugly on the border of Akita and Yamagata prefectures. The wildflowers blossom out of control, alpine lakes pop up all around, and the snow sticks around through all seasons, making this one of the best hikes in Japan.

Mt. Chokai

The hike: From the parking lot at Hokodate, drop your pack off at the Hokodate Sanso (鉾立山荘). The owner is really friendly, and it only costs about 1200 yen to stay here. It’s much better than staying in the cramped, expensive hut near the summit. The mountain doesn’t have any water sources, so make sure you bring plenty with you before approaching the hike (there’s a Max Value supermarket about a 10-minute walk north of the station) there aren’t any reliable sources on the mountain. The huts will gladly sell you water for ridiculous prices (500 yen for 500ml). The trail starts off rather gently, with a great view of an amazing gorge adjacent to Hokodate. Just after starting, you’ll see a mountain hut on your left. This is called Shinonome hut (東雲荘) and it’s owned by the TDK corporation. It’s possible to stay here but you’ll want to double check that the hut is actually open before starting your hike.  Anyway, ignore this hut and keep climbing the concrete steps and you’ll reach a lookout platform that has two picnic benches at the top of a series of concrete steps, where you’ll get a view straight down into the gorge.  From here, the concrete turns into a broad rock path that resembles an ancient Roman byway. After about 45 minutes of steady climbing, the angle will ease a bit and you should see your first traces of snow. You’ll also find some running streams to fill up your water, but I’d definitely filter it before drinking because of the popularity of the area. Your first big landmark is the flatlands of Sai no kawara (賽の河原). Here you’ll find a signpost indicating that   Ohama (御浜) is only 1.5km away. If you look up you can pretty much trace the outline of the trail to Ohama hut sitting on the edge of the plateau. There’s a small shrine just before the hut and just behind the hut there’s a scenic crater lake. There’s a toilet here and you can also stay overnight in the hut (advance reservations recommended, as it gets full pretty quickly during the busy season). The summit of Mt. Chokai will come into view just left of the lake, and it still looks so far away. Continue past the hut to the left for another half hour, and you’ll come to a junction. Ignore the spur on the right and continue straight, towards the peak. After another 30 minutes or so you’ll come to another junction, where a choice has to be made. You can either go left or right. The right spur is the ridge trail, with amazing views over to the summit. The left spur is the more direct route. I’ll describe a loop hike, climbing the left and descending via the ridge. Take the left trail, which cuts through a rather long snow field before climbing up the other side. The path becomes quite rocky, so just follow the paint marks and the crowds if you came on the weekend. You should reach the hut just below the summit in around 90 minutes or so. You could stay here, but the lack of water doesn’t make it very inviting. The hut does offer meals though (not sure if water is included in the price though) Continue behind the hut to the top of Mt. Chokai, called Shin-san (新山). There are lots of huge rock formations to traverse through, and chains make the trickier sections more manageable. The true summit only has room for only 3 people at a time, so be prepared to queue up, especially on weekends and during Obon.  Traverse up and over the summit and head down the other side, where you’ll find yet another snow field. Cross this and head up the other ridge over to Mt. Shichikou (七高山). This is the twin peak of Shin-san, which explains Chokai’s double hump appearance from a distance. After taking a quick rest, turn around and follow the signs to Mt. Gyouja (行者岳). Keep following the ridge, and ignore the trail coming in from the left. You should reach the summit of Mt. Monju (文珠岳) in about 20 minutes after the junction. After 20 more minutes, you’ll be back at the trail junction you first encountered, completing the loop hike of the summit. From here, you can retrace your steps all the way back to Hokodate.

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to early November, when the road to the trailhead (Chokai Blue Line) is open. If you go in late April, be prepared for meters upon meters of fresh snow. Click here to get an idea of the climbing conditions during Golden Week. Please note that bus service is extremely limited as of 2025.

Access: Starting in 2014, the bus to Hokodate runs by reservation only. You must make a reservation one day in advance by calling 0184-43-2030  or by filling out the on-line form (in Japanese) here. The bus costs 3000 yen one-way and is nothing more than a small, blue shuttle van when only a few people reserve. 99% of hikers now drive to the trailhead, so there’s a real danger that the bus will be discontinued altogether.  The bus starts from Kisakata station (象潟駅) and heads to Ōbirasansō (大平山荘), stopping at Hokodate (鉾立) along the way.  The bus runs every day from July and August, and then on weekends only throughout September until the end of October. There’s also a direct night bus from Tokyo station to Kisakata. 

Live web cam: Click here

Digital Map in English (Avenza App): Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 1146m)

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Comments: 4 Comments

Mt. Kiso-komagatake (木曽駒ヶ岳）

March 29, 2008

This blog post was written back in 2008. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Clocking in just a few meters under 3000, Mt. Kiso-komagatake is the highest peak in the Central Alps mountain range. The panoramic views are outstanding, and there’s no shortage of accommodation on top.

Mt. Kiso-komagatake

The hike: From the top of the gondola, follow the trail leading off toward the right. You’ll already be above the tree line, so just follow the paint marks up through the rock formations. After about a half an hour of climbing, you’ll reach the ridgeline and a 3-way junction with a mountain hut in front. This is the Hoken-sanso (宝剣山荘), a great place to get a coffee if the cloud is in. Climb up past another hut to the top of Naka-dake (中岳) and then down the other side to a saddle and a blue-roof hut. From there, it’s a short climb to the summit of Komagatake, where the views are incredible. If you’ve got time, then consider staying in one of the huts to catch the sunrise/sunset. Anyway, retrace your steps to Hokensanso, and either take the trail back down to the gondola, or traverse up and over Mt. Hoken (宝剣岳). This trail is marked as an “expert” course, but it’s no more difficult than some of the climbs around Kamikochi. There are plenty of chains, ladders, and paint marks to help you get to the top. Traverse up and over this rocky peak and down the other side, where you’ll find a trail coming in the left. This is the way back down to the gondola. Alternatively, you could keep going straight and make it to Mt. Usugi in about 5 hours or so.

When to go: This hike can be done any time of year, thanks in part to the gondola that runs all year round. Bring crampons and an ice axe in the winter and be careful of white out conditions. The gondola gets extremely crowded when the leaves have changed colors in the autumn, so be prepared for a long wait. Click here to access the gondola website in English.

Access: From Okaya station (岡谷駅) in Nagano Pref. take the JR Iida line (JR飯田線) and get off at Komagane Station (駒ヶ根駅). The local train takes about an hour. From there, take a bus bound for Shirabi-daira (しらび平) and get off at the last stop. Click here for the bus schedule. If you don’t fancy waiting in line for the gondola or would like a more strenuous climb, then get off on stop before at Kitagosho-tozanguchi (北御所登山口). From there, you can climb to the summit in about 6 hours or so. Be careful if approaching this hike from Nagoya, because the JR Iida line from Toyohashi station takes over 5-1/2 hours to get to Komagane! It’s much faster to take the JR Chuo line and change at Shiojiri.

Map:

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 1 out of 5 if using the gondola (elevation change ~300m)

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Comments: 18 Comments

Mt. Oku-shirane (奥白根山）

March 27, 2008

Mt. Shirane is the crown jewel of the Nikko area. Situated on the Gunma/Tochigi prefectural border and just north of Lake Shuzenji, the peak offers beautiful volcanic lakes, stunning views all the way out to Mt. Fuji, and eye-catching rock formations.

Mt. Oku-shirane

The hike: From the parking lot at Sugenuma, take the forest road directly in front of you. Fill up on water and use the facilities before departing. The path is relatively flat at first, and then climbs up the spine of the mountain. You’ll reach a small, beautiful lake in about 2 hours. The rocky peak of Oku-shirane will be visible directly above you, and the reflections of the peak in the lake are mesmerizing. At the far end of the lake, the trail will split in two, but take the right path for the steep climb to the summit. It’s pretty steep and rocky, but the path is well-marked and easy to follow. If you’re hiking in the autumn, there might be some ice, especially if it has rained recently, so a light pair of crampons will make things much safer. I was hiking in snow and ice in mid-October! You should reach the summit of Oku-shirane in after about an hour. The views are truly amazing if the weather is co-operating, with a bird’s eye view of Mt. Nantai, Mt. Hiuchi, Mt. Shibutsu, Mt. Sukai, and even out to Mt. Fuji! From the summit, continue on to a small shrine, and then turn left to head down the peak toward Goshikinuma (五色沼). The trail drops steeply at first, before flattening out at an emergency hut. You could consider staying here, but the lack of water and toilets doesn’t make for a comfy stay. Instead, continue for another 10 minutes to the lake. The reflections of Oku-shirane are wonderful, and there are plenty of places to sit, relax, and take in the scenery. From here you have a couple of options. You could head to the left to complete a loop back to the small lake in which you started, or you could traverse over to Yumoto Hot Spring. The traverse will take about 3 or 4 hours, so make the decision based on the time and weather. From lake Goshiki, take the trail leading off to the right. It’ll climb steeply up a spur before reaching the ridge line. There’s a water source about halfway up the climb, so fill up your bottles there. Turn left once you hit the ridge and you’ll be sitting on top of Mt. Maeshirane (前白根山) in about 30 minutes. From this peak, simply follow the signposts to Yumoto Hot Spring. The descent from the ridge line to the hot spring is one of the steepest I’ve ever encountered, so be especially careful in wet weather or anytime there’s snow on the ground.

When to go: This hike can be done between late April and early December. A winter hike is also possible if you approach from the top of the ski lifts at Marunuma Kogen. Click here to see a report of a winter ascent of the peak. Click here for an English account of an ascent in March.

Access: From Nikko station (日光駅), take a bus to Yumoto Hot Spring (湯元温泉). From there, you’ll either have to start your hike from here, or hitch to the trailhead at Sugenuma (菅沼). I stayed at a cheap minshuku in Yumoto, and the owner gave me a free ride early the next day to Sugenuma, so that’s an option as well. Alternatively, you could approach from Marunuma Kogen ski resort (丸沼高原スキー場), where the gondola will whisk you halfway up the mountain in next to no time. Click here for the bus schedule from Nikko station to Yumoto Hot Spring.

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change 848m)

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Mt. Bandai (磐梯山）

March 25, 2008

Last updated: Feb 17, 2025

Mt. Bandai is an active volcano located on the shores of Lake Inawashiro in Fukushima Prefecture. The views are splendid, the rock formations colorful, and the volcanic scenery picturesque.

Mt. Bandai

The hike: From the bottom of the lifts, follow the tozan michi (登山道) signs toward Mt. Bandai. Initally, the trail will climb on the left-hand side of the ski resort. There aren’t any switchbacks here. You’ll basically be hiking through the grassy ski fields. After about an hour of steep slogging, you’ll reach the ridge line, which turns to the right. It’s rocky at first, but it will flatten out as you approach the top of Mt. Akahani (赤埴山). There’s a short spur trail to the summit on the right-hand side. Head up here for a break if you’d like, or continue to the majestically splendid Numanotaira (沼ノ平) for a more scenic rest. This flat area features some beautiful marshes, alpine flowers, and stinky sulfurous gases. It should take about a half hour of easy hiking to reach the ridge line of Mt. Bandai. This is where the real hike begins, as the peak becomes very rocky. Follow the paint marks carefully if the cloud is in, because the drops to the right are huge. Eventually you’ll reach a series of 2 mountain huts, 2 water sources, and a trail junction. Take a break here, fill up your bottles, and prepare for the final ascent, which will take about 20 minutes or so. The views from the rocky summit are superb if the weather co-operates. Head back down to the junction and either head back the same way you came, all the way back to Inawashiro station, or take the trail to the left for a shorter, alternative way off the mountain.

When to go: This hike can be done between late April and early November. Although not impossible, a winter ascent is only for the really advanced climbers willing to deal with the frequent avalanches, because this peak gets a fair amount of snow in the winter. Click here for a report of a hiker who scaled during Golden Week to get an idea of the amount of snow.

Access: From Koriyama station (郡山駅), take a train on the JR Banetsu-sai Line (JR磐越西線) to Inawashiro station (猪苗代駅). From there, it’s a 1 hour walk to the trailhead at Inawashiro Ski Resort. (猪苗代スキー場) Alternatively, you can take a taxi for around 2000 yen that takes about 15 minutes.

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change ~1200m)

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Mt. Kasa (笠ヶ岳）

March 18, 2008

This blog post was written back in 2008. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Kasa is a glorious ‘bamboo-shaped’ peak towering over nearby Shin-hotaka Hot Spring. It’s arguably the toughest day hike in the Kita Alps.

Mt. Kasa

The hike: From the bus stop at Shin-hotaka, cross the bridge and follow the paved road toward the right. It’ll climb past the Hotel New Hotaka (ホテルニューホタカ) before turning into a dirt forest road. The road is really easy hiking, following a river. After hiking about a hour on the road, you’ll see the trailhead on the left-hand side. There’s a water source here, so fill up your bottles and take a long break before starting. This trail is called Kasa Shindou (笠新道) but is better known by its Japanese nickname “Shindo Kasa”. (Shindoi is a Japanese word meaning “tired”). The trail becomes steep almost instantly, and there is an endless array of switchbacks. If the weather is good, then the peaks of Hotaka and Yari will come into view shortly. You’ve got a 4-hour hike before coming to the first real place to take a break. It’s called Shakushidaira (杓子平), which translates as “bamboo ladle plateau”. The views toward Mt. Kasa are exhilarating but depressing, since you’ve still got a long way to go! I thought I’d made it to the top after so much difficult climbing, but realized the climb was just beginning! Anyway, eat some snacks and psyche yourself up and you should be ok. From this plateau, it should take a little over an hour to reach the ridge line of Mt. Kasa, coming in just below the peak of Mt. Nukedo (抜戸岳). When you reach the trail junction on the ridge, turn left to get to the summit. There’s a lot of up & down between here and your destination, but it should take around a hour or so to reach the hut below the peak. There’s a campground and water source here. Consider staying if you’re not confident about making it back before dark. You can either go back the same way you came, or traverse over the peak down to a different park of Shin-hotaka Hot Spring (which should take about 5 hours to reach). I did this hike in September and started at the break of dawn. Not only did I climb Mt. Kasa, but I traversed all the way over to Mt. Sugoroku and stayed there. A 14-hour marathon of a hike, but it set up a leisurely 2nd day scaling Mt. Washiba and Mt. Kuro.

When to go: This hike can be done from late May to early November. Just like the neighboring peaks of the Kita Alps, Mt. Kasa is considered an expert climb in the winter, and tough even during Golden Week because of all the remaining snow.

Access: From Takayama (高山駅) station, take a bus bound for Shin-Hotaka Hot Spring (新穂高温泉) and get off at the last stop. The first bus is at 7am, arriving at the hot spring around 8:30am. Click here for the bus schedule. There are also buses from Matsumoto station (松本駅) in Nagano, and there may even be direct night buses from Tokyo.

Map:

Level of difficulty: 5 out of 5 (elevation change ~1900m)

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Mt. Hayachine (早池峰山）

March 16, 2008

Last updated: Feb 7, 2025

Mt. Hayachine is a deceptive-looking peak situated almost due east of Morioka city. The wildflowers are beautiful and access is difficult, attracting climbers looking to escape the crowds of nearby Mt. Iwate.

Mt. Hayachine

The hike: From the bus stop at Hiratsuto, walk a short distance back toward the direction you just came from (toward Morioka) and you’ll find a small road and bridge crossing the river on the left-hand side. Take this road and follow it for about 45 minutes or so. At first the road is paved but it gradually turns into a forest road following a beautiful stream. You’ll find several road junctions, but as long as you follow the signs to Hayachine trailhead (早池峰登山口) you’ll be fine. Fill up your water bottles along the way, as there’s no reliable water on the mountain. After about an hour of hiking, the road will split, so go toward the right and you’ll find the trailhead after about 1km or so. Enter the forest and climb. This trail is well-marked but very rarely used, so you should have the entire mountain to yourself. The trail initially runs parallel to the forest road, crossing it once before heading along the spine of the mountain. In about an hour or so, you’ll reach the 6th stage (六合目) and a trail junction. The trail to Kadoma (門馬) leads off to the right. This is an alternative approach up the mountain, shorter than the way you came. It was closed to hikers when I climbed, so I’m not sure of the current status. Anyway, the trail steepens significantly from here, as the forest gradually thins out. The trail becomes rocky, and you’ll find a water source at the 9th stage (九合目). This water source is usually dry in the summer and is unreliable. After about 20 more minutes of climbing, you’ll reach a junction and will probably see your first hikers of the day. Turn right and hike 10 minutes to the top. There’s a free emergency hut and shrine on the summit. The views are amazing out to Mt. Iwate and even over to Mt. Chokai on a clear day. Unfortunately, it was a big, white foggy mess when I climbed. It should have taken you about 5 hours to reach the peak from the bus stop, and if you continue on the same trail you’ll reach another trailhead and parking lot in about an hour. This is the path that most hikers take to the top, and makes for a good traverse. Make some friends on the summit and ask them to give you a lift back to civilization. Alternatively, if you’re a sucker for punishment, then you can descend all the way back down the way you came, which is what I did. Call me foolish, but I was on a tight schedule and needed to get back to Morioka so I could make my train to climb Mt. Chokai the following day. If you’d like to climb 10 of the Hyakumeizan in Tohoku in 10 days without a car, then ask me how to do it.

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to November. A winter hike is a serious undertaking and access is next to impossible without a snowmobile or some cross-country skis.

Access: From Morioka station (盛岡駅), take a JR train on the Yamada line (山田線) bound for Miyako station (宮古駅) and get off at Hiratsuto station (平津戸駅). There are only 1 or 2 trains per day, and there’s a bus that runs the same route as the train, so it’s much better to take the bus. Ask the information counter outside of Morioka station for more details. There’s a much shorter approach up Hayachine via Kawarabou (河原坊) but you really need your own transport to get there. Rumor has it there’s a bus from Shin-hanamaki station (新花巻駅) but I climbed Hayachine after coming off of Mt. Iwate, so it was much more convenient to just jump on a bus at Morioka station.

Digital Map in English (Avenza App): Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~1000m)

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Mt. Yoshino (吉野山）

March 16, 2008

There’s no doubt about it. Mt. Yoshino is the most famous place in Japan for Yamazakura (mountain cherry blossoms), so expect huge crowds every day of the week, rain or shine, during the first few weeks of April. The beauty is well worth the elbow jostling though.

Mt. Yoshino

The hike: From the station, follow the crowds to the cable car station. This must be the short cable car in the world, as I swear you only gain about 50 meters of altitude, so I don’t recommend wasting your money. Instead, take the easy, paved path that switches back up to the main ridge (or take a taxi if you’re feeling lazy). Now, this hike is almost entirely on a paved road. I know it doesn’t sound much like hiking, but it really is beautiful. I only wish they would ban vehicular traffic! Anyway, turn left once you hit the main road, and go past all the souvenir stalls until reaching the first set of temples. The entire mountain is one big World Heritage site, and there’s so much to see. You have a lot of choices, depending on what you’re in the mood for. Personally, I’d recommend walking along the road as far as it will take you – to a place called Kinpu Shrine (金峰神社). From this shrine, there’s a proper hiking trail that starts to the right. At first it looks just like a regular forest road, but soon turns into a quiet scenic mountain path. This is what I call the “real” Yoshino, because hardly any people make it up this far. It’s also the start of the long Omine Pilgrimage route, and if you keep going for about 25km or so, you’ll reach Sanjogatake (山上ケ岳). Your goal on this hike is to make it to Aonegamine (青根ケ峰), the highest point of Mt. Yoshino. It’ll take about 2-1/2 to 3 hours from the train station to reach this point. Although there’s no view from the top, it is a refreshingly quiet place to contemplate life. There are also some “hidden” cherry blossoms on the other side of the ridge which are quite nice. The trail loops around back to Kimpu Shrine. and the trails are really well marked in English & Japanese. After completing the loop, head back down to reality and the crowds. The cherry blossoms are wonderful, but I must warn you that these are special types of trees which form leaves before the flowers! In addition, because of the altitude change, the blossoms will be at varying stages. If the blossoms have finished at the bottom of the mountain, then they’re probably just beginning at the top (and vice versa).

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but it’s most popular (and beautiful) during the cherry blossom season of early to mid April.

Access: From Abenobashi station (in Tennoji), take either a Limited Express or Express train on the Kintetsu line to Yoshino station (吉野). The limited express train costs more, but saves about a half an hour of train time. This train departs twice an hour, at 10 past and 40 past. The Express train is cheaper but takes about 90 minutes or so. It also departs twice an hour, but at 20 past and 50 past. Click here for a complete schedule.

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change ~400m)

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Mt. Kai-Komagatake (甲斐駒ヶ岳）

March 8, 2008

This blog post was written back in 2008. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Kai-komagatake is a glorious ‘horse shaped’ peak located across the valley from Japan’s 2nd highest peak, Kitadake. The views are wonderful when the weather is good and the sandstone rock formations are intriguing.

Mt. Kai-komagatake

The hike: From the bus stop, take the trail that starts to the right of the mountain hut Choueisou (長衛荘). The path zig-zags through a forest for the first hour or so, flattening out a little once you hit the ridge line. You’ll see the rocky peak stretching out in front of you. It looks so far away but just take it one step at a time. In another hour, you’ll reach Komatsumine (駒津峰). The trail splits, but take the left fork (it should be obvious because the right fork goes down off the mountain). Slog on for another 20 to 30 minutes and you’ll see yet another junction. You have 2 options – the ‘expert’ course lying straight ahead or the ‘beginner’ course branching off to the right. Both trails lead to the top. I decided to climb the ‘expert’ and descend via the ‘beginner’. The ‘expert’ course is rocky and kind of steep, but not as bad as I thought it was going to be. In any case, it’s a much shorter course, but takes about the same time as the ‘beginner’ because of all the climbing involved. The top of the peak is rocky and exposed: not a place you want to be in a thunderstorm. If the weather is good you’ll have a breathtaking view of the rest of the Minami Alps, and Mt. Fuji rising to the left of Kitadake. Yatsu-ga-dake will be behind you, and the Chuo & Kita Alps to the north. Head down the beginner path and soon you’ll be back at Komatsumine. From here you have 2 options. You can either go back the way you came, or take the left fork to Sensui-toge (仙水峠). From this mountain pass, turn right and you’ll soon come across a mountain hut and campground. Another 20 minutes down the path and you’ll find yet another hut and the road back to Kitazawa-toge.

When to go: This hike can be done anytime the road to Kitazawa-toge is open. I’m not sure of the exact dates, but probably from Golden Week to early November. If you want to try an alternative approach, you can try a winter ascent via Kuroto ridge just like these people did on New Year’s Day! You’ll need winter climbing experience and the right equipment though.

Access: From Kofu station (甲府駅), take a bus bound for Hirogawara (広河原). From there, change to a bus bound for Kitazawa-toge (北沢峠) and get off at the last stop. Click here for the bus schedule (in Japanese).

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 987m)

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