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Mt. Kobushi (甲武信岳)

March 24, 2008

Last updated: Feb 20, 2025

Mt. Kobushi is a pointy peak straddling the border of Yamanashi and Saitama prefectures. The views out to Mt. Fuji are superb and the fall colors breathtaking.

Mt. Kobushi

The hike: From the bus stop, hike up the road towards Nishizawa gorge. The trailhead will be on the right side of the road after about 20 minutes or so. You’ve got 2 trail options. One is signposted on the right, while the other is behind the creepy-looking Nishizawa hut (西沢山荘) a little further along the road. Take your pick, as both trails meet up along the way. I’ve been told that the one behind the hut, called “Tokuchan” path (徳ちゃん新道), is more commonly used, and that’s the one I used. The trail wastes no time in climbing through a cedar forest. After about 2-1/2 hours of steep climbing, you’ll come to a trail junction (the meeting of the 2 paths mentioned earlier). Take a break here, and get ready for 600 more meters of vertical altitude gain. It’ll take another 2 hours of tough slogging to reach the saddle and junction just below the summit of Mt. Tokusa (木賊山). The trail to the right will lead to Mt. Hafu (破風山), but ignore this trail and head left to Mt. Kobushi. After reaching the summit of Mt. Tokusa, the trail drops steeply to a saddle between the 2 peaks. There’s a nice hut here awaiting you, with a camping area and water source. Consider staying here to break this hike up into a more leisurely 2-day trek. From the hut, it’s a steep, 20-minute hike to the summit of Kobushi. If the weather is good, you’ll have an awesome view of Mt. Fuji directly in front of you, as well as the Minami, Chuo, and Kita Alps, Yatsu-ga-take, Mt. Asama, and all of the peaks of Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. Either retrace your steps back to the hut, or continue on the trail from the summit over to Jumonji-tōge (十文字峠), via Mt Sanpō (三宝山), Saitama’s highest mountain, where you’ll find another hut and an alternative way off the mountain. Nishizawa gorge, at the start of the hike, is worthy of a side trip if you’ve got extra time/energy either before or after the hike.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but expect a fair amount of snow if you go in the winter. The hut staff recommend that you come during the rainy season, as the rich green foliage glitters when wet and the mountain is empty of hikers! The fall colors are beautiful and bring the crowds to Nishizawa.

Access: From the southern exit of Enzan station (塩山駅), take a bus bound for Nishizawa-keikoku iriguchi (西沢渓谷入口) and get off at the last stop. Click here to access the bus schedule. Alternatively, you can do this hike as a 2 night, 3-day trek from Mt. Mizugaki.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 1415m)

Categories: Yamanashi hikes (山梨県)
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Mt. Kasa (笠ヶ岳）

March 18, 2008

This blog post was written back in 2008. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Kasa is a glorious ‘bamboo-shaped’ peak towering over nearby Shin-hotaka Hot Spring. It’s arguably the toughest day hike in the Kita Alps.

Mt. Kasa

The hike: From the bus stop at Shin-hotaka, cross the bridge and follow the paved road toward the right. It’ll climb past the Hotel New Hotaka (ホテルニューホタカ) before turning into a dirt forest road. The road is really easy hiking, following a river. After hiking about a hour on the road, you’ll see the trailhead on the left-hand side. There’s a water source here, so fill up your bottles and take a long break before starting. This trail is called Kasa Shindou (笠新道) but is better known by its Japanese nickname “Shindo Kasa”. (Shindoi is a Japanese word meaning “tired”). The trail becomes steep almost instantly, and there is an endless array of switchbacks. If the weather is good, then the peaks of Hotaka and Yari will come into view shortly. You’ve got a 4-hour hike before coming to the first real place to take a break. It’s called Shakushidaira (杓子平), which translates as “bamboo ladle plateau”. The views toward Mt. Kasa are exhilarating but depressing, since you’ve still got a long way to go! I thought I’d made it to the top after so much difficult climbing, but realized the climb was just beginning! Anyway, eat some snacks and psyche yourself up and you should be ok. From this plateau, it should take a little over an hour to reach the ridge line of Mt. Kasa, coming in just below the peak of Mt. Nukedo (抜戸岳). When you reach the trail junction on the ridge, turn left to get to the summit. There’s a lot of up & down between here and your destination, but it should take around a hour or so to reach the hut below the peak. There’s a campground and water source here. Consider staying if you’re not confident about making it back before dark. You can either go back the same way you came, or traverse over the peak down to a different park of Shin-hotaka Hot Spring (which should take about 5 hours to reach). I did this hike in September and started at the break of dawn. Not only did I climb Mt. Kasa, but I traversed all the way over to Mt. Sugoroku and stayed there. A 14-hour marathon of a hike, but it set up a leisurely 2nd day scaling Mt. Washiba and Mt. Kuro.

When to go: This hike can be done from late May to early November. Just like the neighboring peaks of the Kita Alps, Mt. Kasa is considered an expert climb in the winter, and tough even during Golden Week because of all the remaining snow.

Access: From Takayama (高山駅) station, take a bus bound for Shin-Hotaka Hot Spring (新穂高温泉) and get off at the last stop. The first bus is at 7am, arriving at the hot spring around 8:30am. Click here for the bus schedule. There are also buses from Matsumoto station (松本駅) in Nagano, and there may even be direct night buses from Tokyo.

Map:

Level of difficulty: 5 out of 5 (elevation change ~1900m)

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Mt. Naeba (苗場山）

March 17, 2008

Mt. Naeba is well known as a stellar ski resort and home of the annual Fuji Rock festival (but nowhere close to Mt. Fuji!). The summit features beautiful wildflowers and glorious views of Mt. Tanigawa, the Northern Alps, & the endless flow of peaks of Gunma prefecture to the east.

Mt. Naeba

The hike: From the parking lot at Wada hut, take the trail that cuts across the ski resort in front of you. Fill up your water bottles in front of the hut before setting off. The path parallels the ski slopes for the first hour or so, on a well-marked path that becomes a river during a heavy rain storm! As you climb up towards the ridge, you’ll pass through 3 different “grassy areas”, labeled ‘lower’, ‘middle’, and ‘upper’. These will be signposted at 下ノ芝, 中ノ芝, and 上ノ芝 respectively. There are an awful lot of wooden planks built into the path to keep hikers from trampling wildflowers. These become treacherously slippery when wet, so take extra care during rainy weather. Once you hit the ridge, a trail will come in from the right. This is an alternate approach, but the way to the summit is left, so keep trudging along for about 10 minutes until coming to another junction. This path on the left leads to the top of the Dragon Gondola, but ignore it and head to the top of Mt. Kagura (神楽ケ峰). Tons of skiers traverse up this far to find clean powder runs in winter.  From here, there’s a rocky traverse over to the true peak of Mt. Naeba. You’ll find a water source just before the trail drops to a saddle. Fill up your bottles here and take a break. It should take about an hour to reach the summit of Mt. Naeba. The initial part is quite steep, but once your on top it’s an easy stroll through beautiful marshlands to the high point. There are 2 huts on top, so take your pick if staying the night. Please note that camping is NOT allowed on the summit! Head back down the way you came, or consider descending down to Akayu (赤湯) for a nice soak in a hot spring bath.

When to go: Mt. Naeba gets the greatest amount of snowfall in Japan, as the ski resort usually stays open until late May! That being said, if it’s a crystal clear day with good weather and low avalanche danger, then you can try this one in the winter by starting from the highest lift at Kagura Mitsumata ski resort. Just remember that you’ll be hiking on top of 3+ meters of snow! Otherwise, aim to go between May and early November.

Access: There are 7 different approaches to Mt. Naeba, neither of which are very convenient without a car. If you’re coming by bus, then the handiest approach is to take the trail leading from Akayu (赤湯). Take a bus from Echigo-yuzawa station (越後湯沢駅) toward Mt. Naeba Prince Hotel and get off at Motohashi (本橋). If you choose this approach it’ll take over 8 hours of tough hiking to reach the summit.  Click here for the bus schedule. Another approach would be to take the Dragon Gondola from the Prince Hotel and start your hike from the top of the gondola. If you do this, then it can be done as a day trip (but you have to pay for the gondola!) Alternatively, you could do as I did and take a very expensive taxi from Echigo-yuzawa station to the top of the Kagura gondola at Wada hut (和田小屋). The taxi will fleece you out of 9000 yen or so.  I’ll describe the hike from here, since it’s the shortest and most popular way up the mountain.

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change ~1000m)

Categories: Niigata hikes (新潟県)
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Comments: 5 Comments

Mt. Hayachine (早池峰山）

March 16, 2008

Last updated: Feb 7, 2025

Mt. Hayachine is a deceptive-looking peak situated almost due east of Morioka city. The wildflowers are beautiful and access is difficult, attracting climbers looking to escape the crowds of nearby Mt. Iwate.

Mt. Hayachine

The hike: From the bus stop at Hiratsuto, walk a short distance back toward the direction you just came from (toward Morioka) and you’ll find a small road and bridge crossing the river on the left-hand side. Take this road and follow it for about 45 minutes or so. At first the road is paved but it gradually turns into a forest road following a beautiful stream. You’ll find several road junctions, but as long as you follow the signs to Hayachine trailhead (早池峰登山口) you’ll be fine. Fill up your water bottles along the way, as there’s no reliable water on the mountain. After about an hour of hiking, the road will split, so go toward the right and you’ll find the trailhead after about 1km or so. Enter the forest and climb. This trail is well-marked but very rarely used, so you should have the entire mountain to yourself. The trail initially runs parallel to the forest road, crossing it once before heading along the spine of the mountain. In about an hour or so, you’ll reach the 6th stage (六合目) and a trail junction. The trail to Kadoma (門馬) leads off to the right. This is an alternative approach up the mountain, shorter than the way you came. It was closed to hikers when I climbed, so I’m not sure of the current status. Anyway, the trail steepens significantly from here, as the forest gradually thins out. The trail becomes rocky, and you’ll find a water source at the 9th stage (九合目). This water source is usually dry in the summer and is unreliable. After about 20 more minutes of climbing, you’ll reach a junction and will probably see your first hikers of the day. Turn right and hike 10 minutes to the top. There’s a free emergency hut and shrine on the summit. The views are amazing out to Mt. Iwate and even over to Mt. Chokai on a clear day. Unfortunately, it was a big, white foggy mess when I climbed. It should have taken you about 5 hours to reach the peak from the bus stop, and if you continue on the same trail you’ll reach another trailhead and parking lot in about an hour. This is the path that most hikers take to the top, and makes for a good traverse. Make some friends on the summit and ask them to give you a lift back to civilization. Alternatively, if you’re a sucker for punishment, then you can descend all the way back down the way you came, which is what I did. Call me foolish, but I was on a tight schedule and needed to get back to Morioka so I could make my train to climb Mt. Chokai the following day. If you’d like to climb 10 of the Hyakumeizan in Tohoku in 10 days without a car, then ask me how to do it.

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to November. A winter hike is a serious undertaking and access is next to impossible without a snowmobile or some cross-country skis.

Access: From Morioka station (盛岡駅), take a JR train on the Yamada line (山田線) bound for Miyako station (宮古駅) and get off at Hiratsuto station (平津戸駅). There are only 1 or 2 trains per day, and there’s a bus that runs the same route as the train, so it’s much better to take the bus. Ask the information counter outside of Morioka station for more details. There’s a much shorter approach up Hayachine via Kawarabou (河原坊) but you really need your own transport to get there. Rumor has it there’s a bus from Shin-hanamaki station (新花巻駅) but I climbed Hayachine after coming off of Mt. Iwate, so it was much more convenient to just jump on a bus at Morioka station.

Digital Map in English (Avenza App): Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~1000m)

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Mt. Yoshino (吉野山）

March 16, 2008

There’s no doubt about it. Mt. Yoshino is the most famous place in Japan for Yamazakura (mountain cherry blossoms), so expect huge crowds every day of the week, rain or shine, during the first few weeks of April. The beauty is well worth the elbow jostling though.

Mt. Yoshino

The hike: From the station, follow the crowds to the cable car station. This must be the short cable car in the world, as I swear you only gain about 50 meters of altitude, so I don’t recommend wasting your money. Instead, take the easy, paved path that switches back up to the main ridge (or take a taxi if you’re feeling lazy). Now, this hike is almost entirely on a paved road. I know it doesn’t sound much like hiking, but it really is beautiful. I only wish they would ban vehicular traffic! Anyway, turn left once you hit the main road, and go past all the souvenir stalls until reaching the first set of temples. The entire mountain is one big World Heritage site, and there’s so much to see. You have a lot of choices, depending on what you’re in the mood for. Personally, I’d recommend walking along the road as far as it will take you – to a place called Kinpu Shrine (金峰神社). From this shrine, there’s a proper hiking trail that starts to the right. At first it looks just like a regular forest road, but soon turns into a quiet scenic mountain path. This is what I call the “real” Yoshino, because hardly any people make it up this far. It’s also the start of the long Omine Pilgrimage route, and if you keep going for about 25km or so, you’ll reach Sanjogatake (山上ケ岳). Your goal on this hike is to make it to Aonegamine (青根ケ峰), the highest point of Mt. Yoshino. It’ll take about 2-1/2 to 3 hours from the train station to reach this point. Although there’s no view from the top, it is a refreshingly quiet place to contemplate life. There are also some “hidden” cherry blossoms on the other side of the ridge which are quite nice. The trail loops around back to Kimpu Shrine. and the trails are really well marked in English & Japanese. After completing the loop, head back down to reality and the crowds. The cherry blossoms are wonderful, but I must warn you that these are special types of trees which form leaves before the flowers! In addition, because of the altitude change, the blossoms will be at varying stages. If the blossoms have finished at the bottom of the mountain, then they’re probably just beginning at the top (and vice versa).

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but it’s most popular (and beautiful) during the cherry blossom season of early to mid April.

Access: From Abenobashi station (in Tennoji), take either a Limited Express or Express train on the Kintetsu line to Yoshino station (吉野). The limited express train costs more, but saves about a half an hour of train time. This train departs twice an hour, at 10 past and 40 past. The Express train is cheaper but takes about 90 minutes or so. It also departs twice an hour, but at 20 past and 50 past. Click here for a complete schedule.

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change ~400m)

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Mt. Arashima (荒島岳）

March 13, 2008

Last updated: Feb. 3, 2025

Mt. Arashima is a beautiful peak towering over Ono city in Fukui Prefecture. The summit yields glorious panoramic views of Hakusan, the Japan Alps, and the peaks of the northern Kansai region.

Mt. Arashima

The hike: Exit the train station and turn left on the road just in front of you. Walk for about 20 minutes until reaching the parking lot of Kadohara Ski Resort (勝原スキー場). There’s no water on this hike, so make sure you fill up before setting off. The trail runs straight through the ski fields and then curves to the right just past the top of the first lift. After about 40 minutes or so, you’ll reach the top of the ski resort, and the trail will enter the forest. The forest is beautiful, covered with virgin Beech trees which turn yellow in the autumn. The path is well marked but is anything but flat. It’ll take around an hour & a half of relentless climbing to reach Shakunage-daira (シャクナゲ平), which is known in English as “rhododendron plateau”. Have some fun teaching the Japanese hikers how to pronounce the English for this plant during your ascent. Anyway, the trail splits in 3 different directions. If you take the trail to the right, you can climb to the top of Mt. Ko-Arashima (小荒島岳), which has breathtaking views out to the real Mt. Arashima. If you’re short of time or just can’t be bothered, then ignore this trail and hang a left toward the towering peak. It should take around an hour or so to reach the flat summit and if the weather is good then you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of Hakusan. After taking a well-deserved break, head back the way you came and consider hitchhiking back to Fukui or just wait for the infrequent train to come.

When to go: This hike can be done year round if you’ve got the proper equipment (and experience) for winter hiking. Otherwise, aim to go between April and November. Click here for a recent winter mountaineering report. It’s a tough winter hike and experience is required.

Access: From Osaka or Kyoto stations, take a JR Limited Express “Thunderbird” train bound for Tsuruga and change for the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Fukui station. From there, change to the JR Etsumihoku Line (越美北線) and get off at Kadohara station (勝原駅). The train takes about an hour and is very infrequent. Aim to board an early morning train so you won’t run out of daylight on the hike.

Digital Map (Avenza App): Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 1263m)

Categories: Hokuriku hikes (北陸地方)
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Comments: 9 Comments

Harima Alps (播磨アルプス)

March 11, 2008

The Harima Alps are a series of small rock formations on the border of Himeji and Kakogawa cities in Hyogo Prefecture. While not very Alpine in nature, the hike does feature some really nice species of native pine trees, wild boar, desert-like vegetation, and not a single cedar tree!

Harima alps

The hike: Head through the ticket gate at Sone station and turn right. Follow the road to the next intersection and turn left. Walk a few blocks, passing a small lake on the right, and you’ll come to a rather busy road. This is called Highway 2. Turn right and walk along highway 2 for about 1km or so. You’ll pass a couple of convenience stores on the right-hand side, so stock up on supplies (there’s no water on the hike). The mountains on your left side are the “Alps” and that’s what you’ll be traversing for the next 5 hours or so. Keep walking along highway 2 until coming to a small shrine on the left-hand side. The trail is directly behind this shrine. The path climbs steeply through a dense forest. Be on the lookout for wild boar in this area. A golf driving range will come into view on your right. Keep climbing up to the ridge line. You’ll know you hit the ridge when you find a gigantic electric tower standing right in the middle of the trail. This is a good place for a short break. The path continues straight ahead (ignore both of the trails branching off to the left and right). Basically, you’ll want to follow the contours of the ridge and the signs to Mt. Takamikura (高御位山). It should take an hour or so to reach the shrine and splendid rock formations here. If it’s a clear day without too much smog, you’ll be able to see Kobe & Osaka cities, Akashi Bridge, Himeji, Osaka bay, Awaji Island, and the peaks of northern Hyogo Pref. If you look straight down you’ll see a lot of small lakes used to irrigate the surrounding fields. There are a ton of escape routes to choose from, but your main goal should be to make it back to Sone station by traversing all of the peaks between this mountain and the station! The next peak along the ridge is called Takanosu (鷹ノ巣山). Ignore all of the small trails branching off the ridge. As long as you follow the signs you’ll be ok. Mt. Takanosu is actually 2 twin peaks, and both of them should be reached in about 45 min. or so. From here, the next target is an unnamed peak with a large microwave antenna on top (it looks like a billboard). Between here and the unnamed peak, you’ll probably hear some gunfire down in the valley. If you look down over the right side of the ridge, you’ll see a very large shooting range! Anyway, head up to the antenna. There’s a very promising looking trail heading off to the right, but stay to the left and head down a very steep rock formation. At the bottom of this rock, you’ll find a concrete bunker and a vast network of trails branching off in all directions. You’ll also find a sign leading to Kashima Shrine (鹿嶋神社). Feel free to descend to the shrine to have a look around, but you’ll have to climb back up to the ridge to complete the traverse. Continue on the same ridge line, and climb the steep mountain in front of you. This peak is called Ootani (大谷山). Keep going to the next small peak, where you’ll find a huge cave in the middle of the trail! This is the site of an ancient burial mound currently under excavation. From this hole, continue going straight and you’ll drop off the mountain very steeply and end up back in civilization. When you hit a small road, turn left and you’ll be back at highway 2. Turn left on highway 2 and cross over the overhead pedestrian bridge. Turn right at the next big street. This is the same street you took to get to highway 2 at the start of the hike. Turn right at the next intersection and you’ll be back at Sone station. This hike can be done in reverse but the trailhead is very difficult to find!

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but there’s a lot of climbing and descending on steep rock formations, so avoid this hike in wet weather.

Access: From either Osaka, Kyoto, or Sannomiya stations, take the JR Shikaisoku (新快速) train bound for Himeji (姫路). Get off at Kakogawa station (加古川) and change to a local train bound for Himeji. The stop closest to the trailhead is called Sone (曽根駅).

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change 200m)

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Mt. Mizugaki (瑞牆山）

March 11, 2008

Last updated: Feb 20, 2025

Mt. Mizugaki wins the auspicious distinction of having the most difficult kanji of all the Hyakumeizan. The peak features unique rock formations and superb views of the surrounding mountainous landscape.

Mt. Mizugaki

The hike: From the bus stop, head into the forest across from the hut. The trail is very clearly marked and well trodden. After climbing for about 45 minutes or so, you’ll reach a hut and junction. This hut is called Fujimidairakoya (富士見平小屋). There’s a water source just below the hut (you should have seen it on your way up to the hut). Fill up here because there’s no water on Mt. Mizugaki. Take the trail running to the left of the hut. The signs should be marked in Hiragana (みずがき) because very few Japanese people can even read the kanji for Mizugaki. The trail initally loses altitude before coming to a small ravine. You’ll see the rock formations directly in front of you. Take a break at this flat spot, because it’s your last chance to rest. From here to the top of Mt. Mizugaki, the trail climbs rather steeply straight up the mountain. There aren’t too many switchbacks on this hamstring workout of a hike. Just look for the paint marks & colored tape hanging on the trees. It should take an hour or so to reach the summit plateau. I climbed in late November and there was some ice up here, so be careful. Anyway, the views from the top are phenomenal. You see Mt. Kinpu directly in front of you, followed by Mt. Fuji, the entire Minami Alps, and Yatsu-ga-take. There’ s trail junction somewhere on the peak leading to Kuromori (黒森), but it’s better to retrace your steps to Fujimi hut. You have several options once you return. Head back down the mountain, camp here, or continue to traverse over to neighboring Mt. Kinpu. Both can be done in one day if you get an early start. I did a 3-day trek climbing Mt. Mizugaki, Mt. Kinpu and Mt. Kobushi all in one go. I highly recommend it.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but watch out for ice & snow in the winter.

Access: From Nirasaki station (韮崎駅), take a bus bound for Masutomi Hot Spring (増富温泉). From there, change to a bus bound for Mizugakisansou (瑞牆山荘) and get off at the last stop. There may be a direct bus to the trailhead, depending on the season. Please check at Nirasaki station. Click here for the schedule.  Alternatively, you can take a taxi directly to the trailhead, but it’ll run you about 9000 yen or so.

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change 720m)

Categories: Yamanashi hikes (山梨県)
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Comments: 5 Comments

Mt. Kai-Komagatake (甲斐駒ヶ岳）

March 8, 2008

This blog post was written back in 2008. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Kai-komagatake is a glorious ‘horse shaped’ peak located across the valley from Japan’s 2nd highest peak, Kitadake. The views are wonderful when the weather is good and the sandstone rock formations are intriguing.

Mt. Kai-komagatake

The hike: From the bus stop, take the trail that starts to the right of the mountain hut Choueisou (長衛荘). The path zig-zags through a forest for the first hour or so, flattening out a little once you hit the ridge line. You’ll see the rocky peak stretching out in front of you. It looks so far away but just take it one step at a time. In another hour, you’ll reach Komatsumine (駒津峰). The trail splits, but take the left fork (it should be obvious because the right fork goes down off the mountain). Slog on for another 20 to 30 minutes and you’ll see yet another junction. You have 2 options – the ‘expert’ course lying straight ahead or the ‘beginner’ course branching off to the right. Both trails lead to the top. I decided to climb the ‘expert’ and descend via the ‘beginner’. The ‘expert’ course is rocky and kind of steep, but not as bad as I thought it was going to be. In any case, it’s a much shorter course, but takes about the same time as the ‘beginner’ because of all the climbing involved. The top of the peak is rocky and exposed: not a place you want to be in a thunderstorm. If the weather is good you’ll have a breathtaking view of the rest of the Minami Alps, and Mt. Fuji rising to the left of Kitadake. Yatsu-ga-dake will be behind you, and the Chuo & Kita Alps to the north. Head down the beginner path and soon you’ll be back at Komatsumine. From here you have 2 options. You can either go back the way you came, or take the left fork to Sensui-toge (仙水峠). From this mountain pass, turn right and you’ll soon come across a mountain hut and campground. Another 20 minutes down the path and you’ll find yet another hut and the road back to Kitazawa-toge.

When to go: This hike can be done anytime the road to Kitazawa-toge is open. I’m not sure of the exact dates, but probably from Golden Week to early November. If you want to try an alternative approach, you can try a winter ascent via Kuroto ridge just like these people did on New Year’s Day! You’ll need winter climbing experience and the right equipment though.

Access: From Kofu station (甲府駅), take a bus bound for Hirogawara (広河原). From there, change to a bus bound for Kitazawa-toge (北沢峠) and get off at the last stop. Click here for the bus schedule (in Japanese).

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 987m)

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Comments: 4 Comments

Mt. Azuma (吾妻山）

March 6, 2008

Last updated: Feb 17, 2025

Mt. Azuma is a magnificent volcano , with its own baby version of Mt. Fuji and plenty of wildflowers. Although Nishi-Azuma is the official high point for Hyakumeizan climbers, a full traverse from east to west is the best way to appreciate the beauty of the place.

Mt. Azuma

The hike: From the huge parking lot, you’ve got 2 options. You can either climb Mt. Fuji’s baby brother Azuma-kofuji (吾妻小富士) or head for Mt. Issaikyo (一切経山). The ascent and circling of the crater rim of baby Fuji should take about an hour or so. The trail up to Mt. Issaikyo is well tracked and easy to follow. Just find the trail between the visitor’s center and the rest house (or follow the crowds). Oh, and pick up a free map at the visitor’s center before venturing out. There are a vast network of trails, so if you’re just doing a day hike in this area and not a full traverse, you’ve got tons of great options. It should take about an hour of moderate climbing to reach the high point of Issaikyo. Along the way, the views toward baby Fuji are splendid, but make sure you frame your photos to cover up the huge parking lot. Upon reaching the top, you’ll notice a beautifully colored emerald volcanic lake on the other side. This lake is called Goshikinuma (五色沼) and it should take about 20 minutes of steep descending to reach the shoreline. If the top of Issaikyo is crowded, then consider traversing down here for a quieter respite. Continue past the lake and climb up towards the other side. The trail will split, but go left for a short climb to the top of Mt. Iegata (家形山). From there you’ll basically follow the ridgeline all the way to Nishi-Azuma (西吾妻山). The first hour or so to Mt. Eboshi (烏帽子山) is fairly easy-going, but then you’ll have a steep drop and a short climb to the top of Mt. Shougen (昭元山). After this peak, it’s a series of never-ending rolling hills. You can go for miles and miles, and that’s just what you’ll need to do to reach the western part of Azuma. There’s an escape route, however, a short distance from Shougen. A trail will join the main trail on the left. This is your last chance to get back to Jododaira, and it would make for an interesting 2-day loop. Higashidaiten (東大巓), a rock formation, is the next landmark you’ll come to . A short distance later, a trail will branch off to the right, taking you to a nice emergency hut called Meigetsusou (明月荘). This hut is free and has plenty of water, but you need your own food and sleeping bag. Consider staying here if you’re tired, the weather is bad, or it’s getting late. Before making the decision, bear in mind that you’ve got 3-1/2 to 4 hours of gentle hiking until reaching Nishi-Azuma. I did the entire traverse in one day, but I got an early start and the weather was stunning. Anyway, as I said before, the trail is really easy and it passes some beautiful marshland with wonderful views out to neighboring Mt. Bandai. You’ll reach Nakadaiten (中大巓), where the crowds will become noticeably larger. This is due to the nearby ski lift, operating all year round and bringing lazy tourists to this mountain. After leaving Nakadaiten, the trail drops via wooden stairs to a flat point and water source. This is your last chance to get water, so if you’re staying at the emergency hut at Nishi-Azuma then fill up generously. It’ll take about an hour of climbing before reaching the true high point of the Azuma range. You’ll be quite disappointed, because there’s absolutely no view from the top! Never fear, because after a short descent you’ll come to a wonderful unmanned mountain hut where you can stay all year round. If you’ve got time, then hike out to Nishidaiten (西大巓) because this is where the true views are. Mt. Bandai will be directly in front of you, and on a clear day you’ll also see Mt. Iide and Mt. Asahi. Retrace your steps back to the hut, and take the trail leading away toward Wakamedaira (若女平). You should reach this flat spot after an hour of steep descending. This trail is one of the main trails used in winter climbing of the mountain, so look for the trail markers high in the trees. If the trail is wet, you’ll be slipping and sliding all over the rocky course. The trail keeps going down, down, down, until popping out on a paved road near the ski lift. Follow the road downhill to Shirabu Hot Spring (白布温泉). Enjoy a well-deserved soak in town and check the schedule for the bus to Yonezawa station (米沢駅).

Here is some extra information in Japanese about the full traverse. 

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to early November, when the road to Jododaira is open. If you’re going to climb Nishi-Azuma only, then you can climb in the winter by using the ski lifts at Tendengai Kogen Ski Resort (天元台高原スキー場).

Access: From Fukushima station (福島駅), either take a taxi or rent a car to get to Jododaira. There used to be a bus to Jododaira but it was discontinued in 2022 due to COVID-19 effects. The only way to get there now by public transport is by bus tour. 

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change ~400m)

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