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Mt. Kuro (黒岳)

February 8, 2011

For up-to-date information about Mt. Kuro and the Lake Kawaguchiko area please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Kuro is the highest mountain in the Misaka mountain range running along the southern shores of Lake Kawaguchi. It’s also about 100 times less crowded than neighboring Mitsutoge, and the scenery is just as good. The hot spring bath at the end of the hike is an added bonus.

The hike: From the bus stop, cross the main road running through the tunnel (don’t go in the tunnel) and head up the small forest road running perpendicular to the main road. After 5 meters you’ll see a road/path on your left signposted for Misaka-toge (御坂峠). Turn left here and head up the road to a large signboard with a map that says Kawaguchi-no-mori (河口の森). There’s a faint trail on your left but do not take this. Instead head up the forest road. The road meanders up into the mountains before passing by a couple of concrete dams. The road eventually turns into the trail and becomes quite nice, rising through beautiful virgin forest with views of Mt. Fuji through the trees. The path is easy to follow, and after 80 minutes of climbing you’ll reach the mountain pass and the main ridgeline for the Misaka range. You’ll find a sheet metal hut and some bilingual signposts. There’s plenty of open space to sit here, as well as a toilet behind the boarded up hut. Turn left on the ridge line, climbing past the mountain hut. The path starts off pretty gentle before reaching the start of a rather steep and somewhat rocky climb. This is in fact the final climb to the summit, so push ahead steadily and you’ll be rewarded for your efforts. The maps say to allow an hour from the pass to the summit, but I did it in about 35 minutes. Just before the top, you’ll see a signposted trail on your right. Ignore this and continue straight ahead for about 50 meters before reaching the top of Mt. Kuro. You’re about 10 meters higher than Mitsutoge and will more than likely have the place to yourself. On the summit, you’ll see a small sign that says 富士山、河口湖が一望できる場所あり pointing to the left. Take this small trail running away from the ridge for 5 minutes and you’ll reach a rock outcrop with fantastic views of all of Lake Kawaguchi and Mt. Fuji. You can even see the Minami Alps if you look to the left. While the views are not panoramic, they sure beat the antenna-filled carnage of Mitsutoge. Take a break here, because your knees are about the get an unforgettable workout. You’ll see an unmarked trail running just to the left of the rock outcrop, so take this trail for about 25 meters and you’ll see a small signpost nailed to a tree that says Eboshi-iwa (烏帽子岩). If you see this, you know you’re on the right trail. The path descends very steeply. If there’s any snow then the crampons will come in quite handy. Despite the lack of crowds, the route is pretty well-maintained. Every so often you’ll see a green signpost reading Hirose (至広瀬), so just follow the signs. There are plenty of fixed ropes to help in the steeper areas and after about 40 minutes of descending, you’ll reach a junction with a small sign that says Misaka tunnel (御坂トンネル). This trail will take you back to the bus stop where you started. If you’re not comfortable with the descent so far, then this is a viable escape route. Otherwise, turn right here and continue following the green Hirose signs. There’s one tricky part in the descent, where you’ll reach a rock traverse. The path is eroded below the rocks and there are no ropes here to help you. Instead of trying to risk traversing the slippery-looking rock, try climbing towards your left to the top of the rock formation. From here, you’ll find some fixed ropes to help you through the section. It’s the only dodgy part of the hike, but once you’re past it then it’s smooth sailing. As you drop closer and closer to the lake, the trail becomes a bit straighter and steeper, but there are ropes here to help you. The final 100 meters down to the end of the trail is quite amusing, especially in late autumn or winter when the foliage had fallen. The leaves are nearly waist-deep in places, and you’ll spend more time on your butt than on your feet, but just keep holding onto the ropes and let gravity take its toll. I know it sounds dangerous but it’s actually quite enjoyable. Anyway, once you reach the bottom, turn right and cross the creek over to the paved road. Turn left on the road and the first building you come to on your right is the hot spring! After a therapeutic soak, head down the paved road to the bus stop, where you can catch a bus back to Kawaguchiko station.

When to go: This hike can be done year round if you bring some crampons. Winter is indeed the best time to view Mt. Fuji, but if there’s any snow then be careful on the incredibly steep descent down to Hirose (広瀬)

Access: From Kawaguchiko (河口湖) station, take a bus bound for Kofu (甲府駅) station and get off 三ツ峠登山口 (Mitsutoge-Tozanguchi). Alternatively, you can take a bus bound for Tenkachaya (天下茶屋) and get off at the Mitsutoge-Tozanguchi stop. The Tenkachaya bus runs from April to November (weekends only), so if you’re hiking in the winter, go for the Kofu bus. Pick up a handy bilingual bus schedule from the tourist information center. Click here for the Kofu bus schedule and here for the Tenkachaya schedule. The Tenkachaya bus does not run in the winter, so plan accordingly if you’re heading there during the snow season.

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 783m)

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Mt. Ryū-ga-take (竜ヶ岳)

January 4, 2011

Last updated: Feb 20, 2025

Ryū-ga-take, otherwise known in English as dragon’s peak, is a serpent-shaped mountain towering over Lake Motosu at the western end of Mt. Fuji. It is best known as a vantage point for seeing the ‘Diamond Fuji’ phenomenon on New Year’s Day. Oh, and the unobstructed views of Fuji aren’t half bad either.

The hike: From the bus stop, cross the main road and head down the street that runs perpendicular to the main road (there’s a traffic light here and a police station). The road descends towards the lake. You can either stay on this road the whole way or take an immediate right into a parking lot and walk along the lake shore clockwise. You’ll see a restroom and another parking lot on the main road. Head to the shore of the lake and take a left towards the “yellow submarine” called Moguran. Once you reach the submarine-shaped tourist boat, turn left and head up to the paved forest road. Turn right on the road and walk about 200 meters until you reach the entrance for the campground (本栖湖キャンプ場). Turn left and enter the campground. During the winter this place is deserted, but it must be a hub of activity in the summer. Follow the white signs that say Ryū-ga-take Tozandou Iriguchi (竜ヶ岳登山道入口) The path makes multiple turns through the campground, so make sure you follow the signs. Once you reach a forest road the path will appear on your left. Make a sharp 180º turn and start climbing through the forest. There are numerous switchbacks and if you imagine this peak as a dragon, it truly feels like you’re climbing on the tail of a dragon. The views down to Lake Motosu will quickly open up, and after about 20 minutes of steady climbing you should get your first views of Mt. Fuji. Once you reach the top of the ridge line you’ll find a wooden bench with a stellar view of Japan’s highest peak. Take a break here, as the bulk of the climbing is yet to come. The trail veers towards the right and flattens out somewhat before climbing through bamboo grass towards a large clearing with a wooden, covered viewing platform. If climbing in the rain, you’ll appreciate the small break from the elements. Just in front of the platform, there’s a small wooden building housing several ancient stone Buddha statues. Say a quick prayer before starting the final push towards the summit. Again, imagine you’re climbing a dragon. You’ve already climbed up the tail and now you’re heading straight up the spine of the beast towards the head. There are numerous switchbacks that make the climbing easier and the unobstructed views of Mt. Fuji directly behind you will quickly make you forget about the sweat wicking off your body. If it’s been raining or snowing recently, then the track will more than likely be one slippery, sloppy mess, so be prepared for muddy feet. It should take about 40 minutes or so to reach the summit plateau, where you’ll have a view of not only all of Lake Motosu, but also the Aokigahara-Jukai forest, the western tip of Lake Kawaguchi, and Mitsutōge, with the mountains of Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park rising behind. You’ll soon reach a junction on your right which is an alternative way back to the campground. You can take this path on the way down if running short on time. Continue climbing on the ridge for 5 more minutes until reaching the high point of the peak. They’ll be a weathered signpost as well as a couple of picnic tables. Take a break here and admire the million dollar views. If you’re lucky then you can see the Minami Alps and Yatsu-ga-take rising up beyond Lake Motosu. From the summit, head past the signpost towards the west and not back the way you came. The trail follows the bamboo grass a short distance before descending rather steeply through a beautiful forest. After a few minutes you’ll reach a clearing and the trail will veer off towards the right. You can see the mountain pass directly below you and if you look off in the brush to your left, you’ll see the remnants of the old trail with a lot of wooden steps. If the path is muddy then I recommend opting for the steps (but watch out for the bushes with thorns). Both paths meet at the bottom, so if you can’t find the steps then take the switchbacks. Once you reach the saddle, the path continues climbing directly in front of you, with Mt. Fuji on your left. After 10 minutes or so, you’ll see a small white signpost with the letters Hashita-tōge (端足峠). Turn right here away from the ridge on what appears to be an old forest road. This trail will traverse along the edge an adjacent peak before descending down to Lake Motosu. The trail is easy to follow and is stunningly beautiful during autumn. It should take about an hour or so to reach the shore of the lake. You’ll reach a junction, but ignore the trail to the left and follow the sign that says Motosuko-kohan (本栖湖湖畔). After a few ups and downs, you’ll reach another junction, where you’ll have 2 options. You can either turn left here and descend to the paved forest road or stay on the more scenic (but more strenuous) trail in front of you. If you’ve got the energy, I recommend staying on the trail. It should take another hour or so to reach the campground where you started. At one point, you’ll reach a junction which has a sign for Ryuu-ga-take pointing directly in front of you and a set of stairs leading down to your left to the forest road. This is the place where you’ll want to drop down and take the road back to the bus stop where you started. All in all, it should take about 6 hours to complete this strenuous but incredibly scenic loop.

When to go: This hike can easily be done year round, but you might want to bring a pair of light crampons if hiking in the winter. If you want to watch the sunrise over the summit of Mt. Fuji, then go during the last week of December or the first week of January. You’ll need your own transport for the sunrise hike, however, as the first bus doesn’t arrive until 10:07am. Be warned that this is an extremely popular hike on New Year’s Day for the first sunrise.

Access: From Kawaguchiko  (河口湖) station, take a bus bound for Motosuko Kankō Annaijo (本栖湖観光案内所) or the Motosuko Tourist Information Center and get off there. The tourist information center at Kawaguchiko station has bilingual copies of all the bus timetables in the area. Click here for the bus schedule in English,.

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change 550m）

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Mt. Niseko Annupuri (ニセコアンヌプリ)

August 27, 2010

Mt. Niseko Annupuri is the highest peak in the Niseko mountain range and popular with hikers throughout the year. The views across the valley towards Mt. Yotei are nothing short of magical.

The hike: Walk on the concrete road between Yama no Ie hut and the campground, where you’ll find the trailhead a short distance from the parking lot. Fill up on water at the campground, as there’s no water source on the mountain. The well-used trail crawls its way through a dense forest for the first half hour or so, before popping out of the trees onto the main ridge. About 15 minutes into your ascent, you’ll see an unmarked trail branch off towards the right. Ignore this path, as it leads to Mt. Moiwa and Niseko Annupuri ski resort. Stay towards the left and keep climbing. In clear weather it’s easy to see where you’re going, but if the cloud is in then be careful because there are no signposts or paint marks on the rocks. The views will start to open up when you hit the ridge, and you’ll see the summit peaks rising sharply across the col on your right. As you rise higher and higher above the tree line, the trail becomes much rockier. This is where the switchbacks start, making navigation a lot smoother than just shooting straight up the side of a steep mountain. After another 20 minutes of meandering towards your destination, the trail will flatten out, with the high point directly ahead. Continue straight ahead towards the summit of Niseko Annupuri, where you’ll be rewarded with a breaktaking view of Mt. Yotei across the valley. You can see whyYotei was nicknamed Ezo-fuji in the old days. There’s a concrete emergency hut here that smells of paint inside. Don’t stay here unless you have adequate water and want to have a chemical induced headache from inhaling all the harmful fumes. From the summit, you can either retrace your steps back to the hot spring, or take the trail directly in front of you that drops down into the ski resort. You’ll reach the ski lifts after about 10 minutes, where you can follow them all the way down to Hirafu. Another interesting option would be to turn left once you reach the top of Grand Hirafu Summer Gondola and follow the signs towards Kagami-ike (鏡池), which has beautiful mirror-like reflections of the surrounding peaks. From the lake, it’s another hour or so to the bus stop at Hanaen (花園), where you can take a bus back to Kucchan station.

When to go: This hike can be done year round if you approach from the top lift of the ski resort in the winter. Otherwise, aim to go when the road/bus to Goshiki Onsen is running between early July and late October. If you’ve got your own transport then you can go earlier in the season.

Access: From Niseko station (ニセコ駅), take a red-colored bus bound for Goshiki Onsen (五色温泉) and get off at the last stop. You can also take this bus from Kucchan station (倶知安).  Please note that there are only 2 buses a day, one leaving Niseko station at 10:10am, and the other departing at 2:35pm. I recommend staying at the beautiful Goshiki Onsen Ryokan, where you’ll find 2 outstanding outdoor baths. The lodge across the street (Niseko Yama no Ie) is a bit run down but has a very friendly/helpful manager and a nice bath as well. Click here for the bus schedule.

Map: You can get a decent free map at the tourist information center at Kucchan station, or from the huts at Goshiki Onsen.

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change ～500m).

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Mt. Mikuma (三熊山）

July 26, 2009

Mt. Mikuma is a small hill overlooking the coastal resort town of Sumoto on Awaji Island. The small elevation change and outstanding panoramic views make it the perfect afternoon stroll after a morning on the beach.

mikuma1

The hike: There’s a tourist information center at the bus terminal if you’d like to get a basic map or inquire about accomodation options. Walk out the main entrance of the terminal and turn right, heading for the large supermarket just in front of you. This is an excellent place to pick up supplies. You can also marvel at the grass parking spaces! Anyway, continue walking past the supermarket on the main road into town. If you want a little more scenic and quieter approach to the beach, then walk a few blocks towards the sea, where you’ll find a wonderful wooden boardwalk. Cross over the bridge and decent to the beach. This is actually one of nicest beaches in the Kansai area (sans Shirahama), but beware that there are no coin lockers here. (There are a few at the bus station if you’d like to save some money). Otherwise, you can pay 1000 yen at any of the shops on the beach and they’ll keep your stuff and let you have a warm shower. If you want to do the hike first, then walk all the way along the beach until reaching a rather large, modern hotel called the Hotel New Awaji. The hiking path starts just beyond the hotel, on a steep paved driveway. Follow the road to the top of the hill, where you’ll see signs pointing towards Mt. Mikuma. Turn left and follow the paved path as it winds its way through a spectacular forest. Despite the fact that it’s a completely concrete path, the beauty of the flora really makes you forget about this unfortunate truth. If you’re walking in sandals, then you might actually appreciate the grip the path has to offer. Continue climbing and turn left at the first major junction you see. Again, there’s a signpost here, so it’s difficult to get lost. After another couple of switchbacks you’ll arrive at the top of the ridge. Turn left again and the castle will come into view directly in front of you. There’s a hidden parking lot for people who are lazy and want to drive up, but I guarantee that you’ll pretty much have the place to yourself during the summer, as the hot and humid weather will keep most in their fancy hotels below. There’s a shop just below the summit that sells shaved ice and soft drinks. Make your way towards the castle, where you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the beach below. The castle itself is a concrete reproduction built in 1928, but the castle walls date from the 6th century. The castle is free to enter and has outstanding vistas all the way over towards Wakayama city. If you’re keen to do a little more walking, then you can retrace your steps back towards the paved path, where you’ll find a loop trail over to nishi-no-maru (西の丸). There aren’t any views on that side of the mountain, but it looks like a good place to escape if there are any big crowds near the castle (which there could be in autumn.) Anyway, retreat back to the beach and reward yourself with a refreshing swim. In addition, Hotel New Awaji has two amazing hot spring baths that can be yours for a measly 1800 yen (surely the steepest day-use fee for any hot spring in Japan). There’s plenty of free camping on the beach, or you can shell out the big bucks for the hotel. There’s also a hostel-eque place right on the beach that gets very crowded with groups in the summer.

When to go: This hike can easily be done year round, but the best time is probably the summer, where you can combine the hike with a lovely swim on the beach. In addition, it can be easily done in sandals, eliminating the need to carry an extra pair of walking shoes.

Access: From the Hankyu bus terminal in Umeda, take a bus bound for Sumoto bus center (洲本バスセンター). The bus takes 2 hours and costs 2300 yen (one-way). Click here for the schedule. There are also JR buses leaving from the JR highway bus center (also in Umeda) which cost the same price and take about the same amount of time. Alternatively, you can also take a bus from Sannomiya station in Kobe. Click here for the schedule (click on the PDF file on that page).

Level of difficulty: 1 out of 5 (elevation change 133m)

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Mt. Kurobegoro (黒部五郎岳）

April 21, 2009

This blog post was written back in 2009. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Kurobegoro is on the main Kamikochi-Tateyama trekking route, and one of the most unspoilt peaks in the Kita Alps. The huge col below the summit traps snow until late in the year, providing numerous photo ops when the weather is cooperating.

kurobegoro

The hike: Please note that the trail from Utsubo towards the first big junction is upkept and is becoming less and less popular. If you’ve got your own transport, then it’s better to start at Hietsu Tunnel (飛越トンネル), which is just up the road from Utsubo. Anyway, walk on the forest road that continues past the bus stop to its terminus. It’s about 5km or so, and it should take about an hour. Once you reach the end, the trail will branch off towards the left, climbing a somewhat steep spur before flattening out into some marshlands. There’s a water source here, and the mizubasho (skunk cabbage) bloom from early to mid June. Stay on the trail for another 30 minutes or so, and you’ll reach a trail junction, and considerably more foot traffic. This is where the path meets up with the main trail coming from Hietsu tunnel, so turn right and follow the signs to Mt. Teraji (寺地山), which should take another hour or so to reach. Again, the trail is well trodden and easy to follow. The views will start to open up the higher you climb: Mt. Yakushi towers to your left and Mt. Kasa keeps a watchful eye on your right, while Mt. Kurobegoro rises directly in front of you. Continue climbing up for another hour or so, and you’ll find a trail junction on your right, which leads down to Kitanomata Emergency Hut (北ノ俣非難小屋), your home for the night. The triangular hut is small but well kept, with plenty of water flowing out front. If you’ve gotten an early start, then you can consider climbing up and over Mt. Kurobegoro, but keep in mind that you’ve got 4-1/2 to 5 hours of tough hiking before reaching the next hut, so plan accordingly. The next morning, retrace your steps back to the junction, turning right towards Mt. Kitanomata (北ノ俣岳). Soon you’ll rise above the tree line, and if the cloud isn’t in you can see your destination. After an hour or so, you’ll reach a large trail junction, where you’ll finally be on the main ridgeline of the Kita Alps. Turn left if you want to go to Tateyama, or right if Kamikochi is your destination. If you just want to do a quick up-and-back of Mt. Kurobegoro, then leave your pack at the junction. At any rate, it’s a steady 2 hour climb through stunning alpine terrain. Keep your eyes out for ptarmigan and take in the scenery if the weather is good. Unfortunately, when I did this hike in the pouring rain and I couldn’t see a thing. so you bet I’ll be back here to get revenge. Carry on climbing slowly and steadily, and before long you’ll be sitting on top of the target peak. The trail splits in two on the summit, but you can take either fork, since they both meet up again at the bottom. If there’s still a lot of snow, then the left fork is probably a better option. Descend through the spectacular col, and after 90 minutes or so, you’ll arrive at Kurobegoro hut and campground. Set up camp here, or continue along the ridge to Sugoroku if it’s still early in the day. Alternatively. you can turn left at the next trail junction and head north towards Mt. Washiba or Kumo-no-daira. Take your time and enjoy exploring one of the best sections of the Japan Alps.

When to go: This hike can be done from mid-July to early October, when most of the snow is gone. If you’ve got crampons and winter hiking experience, then you can go earlier in the season. Click here for an unbelievable account of a Japanese guy who skied 35km up and over the peak and down to Shin-hotaka hot spring during Golden Week!

Access: Access is really difficult without a car, but it can be done with a little time and patience. From the bus terminal next to Takayama (高山) station, take a bus bound for Nouhi-basu Kamioka Eigyousho (濃飛バス営業所) and get off at that stop. From there, change to the Yama-no-mura bus (山之村バス) bound for Wasafu (和佐府) and get off at Utsubobashi (打保橋). There are only 2 buses a day to Wasafu (only 1 during the winter season), so make sure you time your approach accordingly. If you take the 9:40am bus from Takayama, then the transfer is timed, so you can arrive at the Utsubo trailhead at 12:16pm. Click here to download the bus schedule from Takayama to Kamioka and here to download the schedule for the Yama-no-mura bus.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~1800m)

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Mt. Ryōzen (霊仙山)

March 30, 2009

Last updated: Sept. 07, 2019

Mt. Ryōzen (pronounced in Japanese as ‘ryouzen zan’), is a spectacular peak located on the eastern shores of Lake Biwa, across the valley from Mt. Ibuki. Despite being only 1000m in height, the mountain is known throughout Japan for its stunning collection of alpine flowers, excellent panoramic views, and broad grasslands reminiscent of the hills of Scotland.

ryouzen1

Warning: The leeches on Ryouzen are brutal, so you should definitely avoid hiking during the rainy season and most of the summer. Perhaps this one is best left for an autumn or spring hike. Also, the waterfall route is currently closed, so use the alternative approach described below.

 

The hike (waterfall route): (currently closed to hikers)From Samegai station, head out the front door and walk straight for about 20 meters, where a street will branch off diagonally towards the right. You’ll pass a small grocery store on your left side, which is a good place to pick up supplies. Continue walking on the paved road for about 3km or so, following the signs towards the trout farm (養鱒場). It’s an easy, flat walk that should take about 30 minutes or so. Just after passing the bus stop at Kaminyuu (上丹生), the road will curve towards the right, crossing a bridge over the river. Instead of crossing the bridge, turn left and follow a small paved road next to the river, following the sign that says 霊仙登山道. The water is really clean and you’ll find lots of bridges crossing over to houses on your right. Continue walking straight another 1/2 km or so until reaching what appears to be a water treatment plant. Turn right on the forest road just in front of the facility and follow the road to its terminus, where you’ll find the trailhead. The trail starts off gentle, and soon follows a huge dry riverbed. There may be water flowing during the rainy season, but it was bone-dry during my hike in late March. Follow the paint marks on the rocks and the red tape on the trees. After about 20 minutes or so, you’ll see a huge gully coming in from the right, as well as your first signs of running water. This place is called Ichi-no-tani (一の谷). There’s an alternate trail that climbs the gully to the right, but you’ll want to continue hiking straight, along the river. The path will meander through the river, but there’ll be plenty of places to cross if it hasn’t rained lately. Continue past the area marked ni-no-tani (二の谷) and after a short time, the path will start climbing on your right, away from the river. Don’t worry – you haven’t made a wrong turn, as the steep path will rejoin the river a little further along. Soon you’ll reach a trail junction. If the river is swollen, then take the path to the right. Otherwise, take the signpost marked うるしが滝. You’ll immediately pass under a huge boulder, and then follow the river for another 10 minutes or so until arriving at the base of the falls. Drop your pack at the junction, and cross the river towards the left and you can actually go to the base of the falls. This is one of the more impressive waterfalls in the Kansai area, and in old times mountain priests used to pray under its waters. Retrace your steps back to the junction, and take the trail marked 頂上. The path will climb up and over the falls, following the river for a few hundred meters before branching off towards a gully on your right. The trail will become much steeper now, but there are plenty of ropes tied into the mountain to assist you on the ascent. If it’s been raining then the trail will become one ugly, muddy mess, so consider bringing gaiters. There are lots of red tape marks tied to the trees, so it’s easy to find your way. After about 20 minutes, you’ll reach yet another trail junction. Don’t turn right, as it’ll take you back down the mountain. The signpost has 頂上 pointed towards the left, but the actual trail is straight ahead, so don’t get confused. The trail will branch off to the right, following another small gully before popping out on the ridgeline. Turn right once you reach the junction, and you’ll start climbing through bamboo grass. The views will start to open up significantly, as you’ll rise above the tree line. Mt. Ibuki will be on your right, with Hakusan rising just to the right of it. Behind you, you’ll see Ondake, Mt. Norikura, the Chuo Alps, Yatsugatake, and the Minami Alps (if it’s a clear day). Keep climbing straight ahead, where you’ll reach an emergency hut in about 10 minutes. The hut is unstaffed and free to stay in, but there’s no water source or toilets. Continue climbing on the well worn path towards the first rocky peak directly in front of you. At the summit, there’s a trail branching off to your right, but ignore it and continue straight, towards the top. You’ll descent to a huge col and climb up the other side. Once on top, ignore a trail on the left that heads to the high point (最高点) and head to the summit, where the views towards lake Biwa are superb. Retrace your steps back to the junction and turn right to head to the high point. From here, you’ve got a few options, but the best would be to continue on the same trail towards Sasa-tōge (笹峠), which will take about an hour to reach. Another 30 minutes beyond that, you’ll descend to a river and junction. Turn right and make your way along the river to Asefuki-tōge (汗拭峠) and down to the parking lot at Kura-ga-hata (榑ヶ畑). You can try hitchhiking from here, or you can walk down the road for about an hour before reaching the bus stop at the trout farm. All in all, the entire loop should take anywhere from 6 to 8 hours, so be sure to get an early start.

The hike (trout farm route): From Samegai station, take the bus bound for yōsonjō (養鱒場) and get off at the final stop. Follow the paved road that hugs the left bank of the stream, with a large trout farm across the water on your right. It’s a long walk on the paved road for 3.8km to reach the start of the hike. There are a couple of smaller forest roads that branch off the main one, but stay on the main road as it follows the river upstream. After passing by a small parking lot the road turns to gravel and you’ll see a small hand-painted signpost that reads 登山口 just before a bend in the road. Take this route as it leaves the main road and continues following the narrow stream past an area dotted with moss-covered platforms. There used to be a small village here that was abandoned during World War II but now all you’ll find is a small, creepy-looking mountain hut. Pass by the hut and cross the small stream, where you’ll find some cold drinks for sale. There’s an honesty box where you can deposit your money if you’d like to purchase a refreshing (but not necessarily fresh) beverage. The trail climbs steeply from this point, switchbacking a couple of times until reaching Asefuki-tōge (汗拭峠). Turn left here at the signpost marked for summit (山頂). The path continues its steep climb towards the summit ridge, through a magnificent forest that really comes to life in the autumn. The route is very clearly marked and is divided into 7 stagepoints. The views really start to open up when you reach the 5th stagepoint (五合目), and the rock formations here make a great place for a break. If you look above you, you can see the summit ridgeline peeking out above the treeline. Continue straight on and you will soon leave the treeline and switchback through the grasslands to the summit of the first peak on the vast plateau. This is the 7th stagepoint (七合目). The path gradient eases up nicely here, and it’s a wonderful but long stroll through the grasslands to the summit. Keep an eye on time, as the final bus from the trout farm back to Samegai station leaves at 5pm. If you miss this bus, then you need to walk an extra 4km back to the station. Anyway, continue straight on and you will soon pass by a small pond marked by a large wooden shrine gate. From here it’s a steady climb up and towards the right to the crest of the ridge, where the views towards Mt. Ibuki and the Japan Alps really start to open up. Turn right here at this junction for a long drop to a saddle, followed by an even longer climb to the high point (最高点). If you want to save a bit of time on the return, then there’s an unmarked deer trail at the bottom of the saddle. Retrace your steps to the saddle and turn left, continuing left at every unmarked junction. You will eventually reach a small pond, so veer right here and climb back up to the 7th stagepoint (七合目). Retrace your steps back to the trout farm. All in all, it’s a strenuous hike that should take about 6 or 7 hours, depending on your speed.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but you’ll want to be prepared for winter climbing conditions between December and April. The busiest times are during the summer months when the alpine flowers are in bloom, but you’ll have to fight with the leeches. Autumn and spring offer the most favorable hiking conditions. Be sure to bring a headlamp or flashlight if you happen to get caught out after dark, as the hike is quite long.

Access: From Kyoto (京都) station, take the JR Shin-kaisoku (新快速) on the Tokaido line bound for either Maibara (米原) or Nagahama (長浜) and get off at Maibara. Change to either a local or kaisoku train bound for either Ogaki or Toyohashi and get off at Samegai (醒ケ井) station, which is only one stop from Maibara. It’s a 4km walk to the trailhead, or you can take one of the infrequent buses, which now require advanced booking. Click here for more information.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~900m)

Total round-trip distance: 15km (6 to 8 hours)

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Mt. Warusawa (悪沢岳）

March 22, 2009

This blog post was written back in 2009. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Warusawa is the 6th tallest peak in Japan and the gateway to the southern portion of the Minami Alps. Its remote location and huge elevation gain make it a must-climb for burgeoning alpinists. The peak is also goes by the name of Mt. Arakawa (荒川岳) so don’t be confused – they are the same mountain.

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The hike: Most people start and finish this hike at Sawara-jima, knocking off both Mt. Warusawa and Mt. Akaishi in the process. Allow 3 days to complete this tough but scenic route. From the bus stop at Sawara-jima, continue hiking north along the paved forest road for about 10 minutes until reaching a large, green, steel bridge. The trailhead is on the left, just before you cross the bridge. The path is relatively flat for the first few minutes or so, until crossing a large suspension bridge over the river. The bridge is really narrow and not for those with acrophobia. After crossing the river, the trail winds its way through a scenic forest for about an hour and a half or so, before meeting up with a gravel forest road. Cross this road and head up a metal staircase built into the hillside, marked with a 千枚小屋 signpost. This is where the true climb begins, as you’ll start climbing making some significant gains in altitude on a well-worn trail through a beautiful virgin forest. Unfortunately, you’ll cross the forest road again after about 45 minutes and will actually be running parallel to the road for most of the way (though it is out of sight). Keep climbing steadily another hour or so and you’ll reach a flat area called Shimizu-daira (清水平), which has a water source. Fill up on water here, as you’ve still got a few hours of hiking left before reaching your home for the night. There’s only one way to go, which is up, up and then up again. About a half hour after leaving the water source, you’ll pass through another marshland, where the views will start to open up. If the weather is clear then you can see both Mt. Akaishi and Mt. Warusawa rising high across the vast valley to your left. You’ll be about 2100m above sea level, but you’ve still got another 500m or so before reaching the hut. Your next landmark will be a small pond on your right, and you’ll soon cross over a set of cables running overhead, which are used to haul supplies to the nearby mountain hut. Continue hiking through the primeval silver fir forest and eventually you’ll arrive at Senmai hut (千枚小屋) and campsite. The hut is open from mid-July to mid-October and costs 8000 yen with 2 meals or 5000 yen without. Camping runs 600 yen per person. Additionally, the 2nd floor of the hut is open out of season and won’t cost you a thing (but you’ll need your own sleeping gear and food). According to the map, it should take about 7 hours for the 10km, 1500m vertical ascent from Sawara-jima to the hut, but you can do it in less time if you’re fit and traveling light. The next day continue on the same trail to the top of Mt. Senmai (千枚岳). Soon after leaving the hut, you’ll pop out of the tree line, and will be there the rest of the day. The trail will become quite rocky, and the views are nothing short of spectacular. From this vantage point, you’ve got an unobstructed view of the entire Minami Alps, which is rare since the towering peaks usually conceal the larger ones behind. Anyway, stay on the ride line for about 45 minutes, and you’ll reach your first 3000m peak of the day, called Mt. Maru (丸山). A short up-and-down traverse later, and you’ll be sitting on top of Mt. Warusawa, the target peak. From here, you can retrace your steps back to Sawara-jima, but I really recommend staying on the ridge line a few more days. Get ready for a huge drop down to a saddle on the other side of Warusawa and a strenuous climb up to Nakadake (中岳), where you’ll find an emergency hut. There are a lot of ptarmigan in the saddle between the two peaks – I was luck enough to see a family with recently hatched chicks. The emergency hut at Nakadake is another possible place to stay, but be warned that it’ll cost you a jaw-dropping 4500 yen to stay in a place with no water or food! This hut is shut tight in the off season, and camping is prohibited in the vicinity. The astronomical costs are due to a monopoly by the Tokai Forest corporation, which owns every single hut on the route. Just behind the hut, you’ll find the summit of Mae-dake (前岳), where you’ll have to make a decision. Turn left to descend to Arakawa hut (荒川小屋) and the gargantuan climb up to Mt. Akaishi. Turn right if you’d like to head towards Mt. Shiomi, which will take another 2 days to reach. Click here for some great photos of the entire Warusawa/Akaishi loop.

When to go: This hike can be done from mid-July to the end of August, when the bus to Hatanagi dam is running. If you’ve got your own transport then you can attempt much earlier or later in the season. A winter ascent may able be possible with the right equipment and experience.

Access: From Shizuoka station (静岡駅), take a bus bound for Hatanagi-daiichi Dam (畑薙第一ダム) and get off at the dam. Change to a shuttle bus bound for Sawara-jima Lodge (椹島ロッジ). Please note that the bus to Hatanagi-daiichi has been discontinued as of May 31st, 2008, and has been replaced by a seasonal bus running only from July 19th to August 31st. Click here for the bus schedule for the bus from Shizuoka to the dam and here for the shuttle bus schedule from the dam to the lodge.

Level of difficulty: 5 out of 5 (elevation change ~2000m)

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Mt. Tomuraushi (トムラウシ）

March 9, 2009

Home of the endangered Japanese pika, Mt. Tomuraushi is a wonderful rocky peak located at roughly the halfway point on the Daisetsuzan trekking route. The scenery and views will certainly make you believe you’ve left Japan.

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The hike: First of all, I would like to thank Julian for this hike description, as I climbed this peak while doing the full Asahi-dake to Tokachi-dake traverse. From the bus stop, head to the end of the road and the trailhead. After about 5 minutes of hiking, you’ll cross a forest road, where you’ll find the lovely Higashi Daisetsu hut, which looks like a great place to stay. Click here for the website in Japanese. Continue hiking on the trail for about 90 minutes or so, until reaching a trail junction marked 温泉コース分岐 (Onsen kousu bunki). This is where foot traffic will increase signficantly, as the trail to the right leads down to a parking lot. Most people with cars just drive up here rather than hiking from the hot spring, so if you’ve got your own wheels you might consider doing the same (especially if doing this hike as a day trip, which I don’t recommend). Turn left at the junction for a moderate climb up a well-worn path. If it’s raining then the path will become a nasty mixture of water and mud, so bring gaiters if you’ve got them. After about 45 minutes or so, you’ll reach an unmarked junction, which is where the old path joins the new. The old path is closed, so stay towards the left and climb through an area of thick bamboo grass. This grass is trimmed during the summer hiking season, but may not be maintained out of season, so exercise caution. The next hour or so is relatively gentle until dropping steeply to a the ‘Robin’ stream (こまどり沢). Be sure to boil and filter any water from the stream, because it could be contaminated with the echinococcus parasite. Cross the stream and stay on the right bank (following the paint marks on the rocks if the weather is bad). If hiking before August then you’ll have to cross a rather large snowfield before reaching 前トム平 (Mae-tomu-dai), a great place for a break. The trail will start to become quite rocky now, passing through areas of wildflowers before reaching a small pond at トムラウシ公園 (Tomuraushi-koen). Be sure to follow the paint marks, since it’s easy to get lost if the cloud is in. The scenery is spectacular, and you’ll reach a junction in about an hour or so. To the left there is a small campsite with a water source (again, be sure to boil) but no toilet. Turn right for the steep, 20-minute climb to the summit. It should have taken anywhere from 6 to 8 hours to reach the summit, so be sure to bring plenty of supplies and consider breaking this up into a 2-day hike. You can either retrace your steps to the campsite, or consider traversing over to Hisago-numa hut (ヒサゴ沼小屋), which will take another 2 or 3 hours of ridge hiking. Alternatively, you could consider heading all the way back to Tomuraushi Onsen, but that’d be over 30km of hiking in one day! Click here for some nice photos of the route.

When to go: This hike can only been done in the summer, when the bus to the trailhead is running. If you’ve got your own transport, however, you can go a little earlier or later in the season. Alternatively, the peak is on the main Daisetsuzan trekking route, and can be approached from the north via Chuubetsu-dake. Be prepared for a lot of snow if attempting before July.

Access: From Obihiro (帯広) station, take a local train on the JR Nemuro line and get off at Shintoku (新得) station. You can also take a limited express train, but it’ll cost twice the amount. From Shintoku, take a bus bound for Tomuraushi Onsen (トムラウシ温泉) and get off at the final stop. As of 2011, the bus is by reservation only and runs between July 16th and August 14th. Click here for the schedule.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 1176m)

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Mt. Shirouma (白馬岳）

February 17, 2009

This blog post was written back in 2009. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Shirouma is the highest peak in the Hakuba section of the Kita Alps and on the top of most Japanese hikers ‘to climb’ list. It also happens to be one of the few peaks in Japan with year-round snow fields.

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The hike: From the bus stop, the trail starts between the large mountain hut and the toilet. If you don’t have crampons then you can usually buy simple 2-pointers from the hut which should be sufficient (unless climbing early in the season). The trail initially follows a gravel forest road, passing by a gargantuan concrete waterfall – easily the tallest artificial fall in Japan. The road eventually turns into a hiking trail proper, and you’ll reach a pair of huts and campground, just below the start of the Daisekkei (great snow field). Take a break and inquire at the hut about current snow conditions/avalanche risk. The Daisekkei is not to be taken lightly, as a landslide in July 2008 killed two people and rockfalls are very common. Bring a helmet just in case if you’ve got one. Put on your crampons before stepping out into the snowfield and please wear some eye protection if the sun is out. You’ll be hiking in the snow for most of the way, so just follow the crowds/footprints. Overall it’s not too bad of a slog, and you should reach the ridge line in anywhere from 2-1/2 to 4 hours, depending on conditions. There’s a huge hut staring at you at the junction, as well as a modest campground. Turn right and pass another hut, and you’ll be on the summit of Mt. Shirouma in another 10 minutes or so. The views are outstanding if the weather is good (consider yourself very lucky if it is – Hakuba is notorious for cloudy weather in the Alpine backcountry). From the summit, you’ve got 4 options. You can either retrace your steps all the way back to Sarukura, or continue on the same ridge line over to Mt. Yukigura (雪倉岳) or down to Mt. Norikura (乗鞍岳). Alternatively, you can head down the back side of the mountain towards Keyaki-daira (欅平). This trail is not used very much, so I can’t attest for the condition. A better option might be to stay on top overnight, catch the sunrise, and then hike along the ridge over to Mt. Yari (鎗ヶ岳) and down to Yari Hot Spring (鎗温泉). Take a left at the first junction on the other side of Mt. Yari, and you’ll arrive at the hot spring in another hour. This trail actually ends up back at Sarukura, making a great 3-day loop hike.

When to go: This hike can be done from early June to early October, when the buses to Sarukura are running. You could also go earlier if you’ve got crampons and an ice axe. Avalanches are common in the Daisekkei until the end of May, so be careful if hiking in the spring. Click here if you don’t believe me.

Access: From Matsumoto (松本) station, take the JR Ooito line to Hakuba (白馬) station. From there, take a bus bound for Sarukura (猿倉) and get off at the final stop. Click here for the bus schedule. There are also overnight Alpico Group buses from Shinjuku station in Tokyo directly to Hakuba

Live web cam: Click here

Level of difficulty: 5 out of 5 (elevation change 1702m)

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Mt. Ainodake (間ノ岳）

January 27, 2009

This blog post was written back in 2009. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Ainodake is the center peak of the Shirane-sanzan trio of summits in the Minami Alps, and is best climbed in combination with adjacent Kitadake, Japan’s 2nd tallest mountain.

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The hike: Follow the description outlined in the Kitadake hike, but instead of turning left at the first junction after reaching the top of Kitadake, continue descending on the rocky ridgeline to Kitadake-sansou (北岳山荘). The hut, located at 2,900m above sea level, is open from the middle of June to early November, and has room for 150 people. There’s also a large, exposed campground just behind the hut. Click here for the website. From the hut, it’s another 90 minutes or so of traversing above 3000m to the summit of Ainodake, the 4th highest peak in Japan. The views of Mt. Fuji are just as stunning as they were from Kitadake, as long as the weather is good. If not, then you’re in “no-man’s land” as far as sheltered comfort goes. You’ve got 3 options from the summit. You can either take the right fork and continue along the ridge to the top of Mitsumine-dake (三峰岳) before dropping to the hut and campground at Kuma-no-daira (熊の平), or take the left fork to the summit of Mt. Noutori (農鳥岳), the 3rd and final peak of Shirane-sanzan. Allow around an hour or so to reach Noutori hut (農鳥小屋), which offers similar accomodation to the other huts in the vicinity. Click here for the website. The final option is to retrace your steps back to Kitadake-sansou, following the trail on the right to the Happonba col (八本歯ノコル). It’s an extremely narrow and tight squeeze on a trail reinforced with wooden stairs and ladders. Click here to get an idea of what you’re in store for. At the top of the col, hang a left for the roughly 3 hour ascent back to Hirogawara (and watch out for lingering snowfields).

When to go: This hike can be done from early June to early November. The road to Hirogawara is closed in the winter, so it’ll be pretty difficult to get here unless you snowshoe or ski a long way to the trailhead! You could go a little earlier if you’ve got an ice axe and crampons.

Access: From Kofu station (甲府駅), take a bus bound for Hirogawara (広河原). Click here for the bus schedule in Japanese.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 1670m)

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