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Mt. Azuma (吾妻山）

March 6, 2008

Last updated: Feb 17, 2025

Mt. Azuma is a magnificent volcano , with its own baby version of Mt. Fuji and plenty of wildflowers. Although Nishi-Azuma is the official high point for Hyakumeizan climbers, a full traverse from east to west is the best way to appreciate the beauty of the place.

Mt. Azuma

The hike: From the huge parking lot, you’ve got 2 options. You can either climb Mt. Fuji’s baby brother Azuma-kofuji (吾妻小富士) or head for Mt. Issaikyo (一切経山). The ascent and circling of the crater rim of baby Fuji should take about an hour or so. The trail up to Mt. Issaikyo is well tracked and easy to follow. Just find the trail between the visitor’s center and the rest house (or follow the crowds). Oh, and pick up a free map at the visitor’s center before venturing out. There are a vast network of trails, so if you’re just doing a day hike in this area and not a full traverse, you’ve got tons of great options. It should take about an hour of moderate climbing to reach the high point of Issaikyo. Along the way, the views toward baby Fuji are splendid, but make sure you frame your photos to cover up the huge parking lot. Upon reaching the top, you’ll notice a beautifully colored emerald volcanic lake on the other side. This lake is called Goshikinuma (五色沼) and it should take about 20 minutes of steep descending to reach the shoreline. If the top of Issaikyo is crowded, then consider traversing down here for a quieter respite. Continue past the lake and climb up towards the other side. The trail will split, but go left for a short climb to the top of Mt. Iegata (家形山). From there you’ll basically follow the ridgeline all the way to Nishi-Azuma (西吾妻山). The first hour or so to Mt. Eboshi (烏帽子山) is fairly easy-going, but then you’ll have a steep drop and a short climb to the top of Mt. Shougen (昭元山). After this peak, it’s a series of never-ending rolling hills. You can go for miles and miles, and that’s just what you’ll need to do to reach the western part of Azuma. There’s an escape route, however, a short distance from Shougen. A trail will join the main trail on the left. This is your last chance to get back to Jododaira, and it would make for an interesting 2-day loop. Higashidaiten (東大巓), a rock formation, is the next landmark you’ll come to . A short distance later, a trail will branch off to the right, taking you to a nice emergency hut called Meigetsusou (明月荘). This hut is free and has plenty of water, but you need your own food and sleeping bag. Consider staying here if you’re tired, the weather is bad, or it’s getting late. Before making the decision, bear in mind that you’ve got 3-1/2 to 4 hours of gentle hiking until reaching Nishi-Azuma. I did the entire traverse in one day, but I got an early start and the weather was stunning. Anyway, as I said before, the trail is really easy and it passes some beautiful marshland with wonderful views out to neighboring Mt. Bandai. You’ll reach Nakadaiten (中大巓), where the crowds will become noticeably larger. This is due to the nearby ski lift, operating all year round and bringing lazy tourists to this mountain. After leaving Nakadaiten, the trail drops via wooden stairs to a flat point and water source. This is your last chance to get water, so if you’re staying at the emergency hut at Nishi-Azuma then fill up generously. It’ll take about an hour of climbing before reaching the true high point of the Azuma range. You’ll be quite disappointed, because there’s absolutely no view from the top! Never fear, because after a short descent you’ll come to a wonderful unmanned mountain hut where you can stay all year round. If you’ve got time, then hike out to Nishidaiten (西大巓) because this is where the true views are. Mt. Bandai will be directly in front of you, and on a clear day you’ll also see Mt. Iide and Mt. Asahi. Retrace your steps back to the hut, and take the trail leading away toward Wakamedaira (若女平). You should reach this flat spot after an hour of steep descending. This trail is one of the main trails used in winter climbing of the mountain, so look for the trail markers high in the trees. If the trail is wet, you’ll be slipping and sliding all over the rocky course. The trail keeps going down, down, down, until popping out on a paved road near the ski lift. Follow the road downhill to Shirabu Hot Spring (白布温泉). Enjoy a well-deserved soak in town and check the schedule for the bus to Yonezawa station (米沢駅).

Here is some extra information in Japanese about the full traverse. 

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to early November, when the road to Jododaira is open. If you’re going to climb Nishi-Azuma only, then you can climb in the winter by using the ski lifts at Tendengai Kogen Ski Resort (天元台高原スキー場).

Access: From Fukushima station (福島駅), either take a taxi or rent a car to get to Jododaira. There used to be a bus to Jododaira but it was discontinued in 2022 due to COVID-19 effects. The only way to get there now by public transport is by bus tour. 

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change ~400m)

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Mt. Sobo （祖母山）

March 5, 2008

Last updated: March 3, 2025

Mt. Sobo translates as “grandmother mountain”, but it’s no walk in the park with an 1100m vertical ascent and an annoyingly large number of horseflies. The views are worth the work, though.

Mt. Sobo

The hike: From the bus stop, head up the forest road on your left. The first 3km or so is easy going, but you’ll soon find the trail proper and climb up, up, and up. There’s an unmanned hut at the 5th stage-point (五合目), which is a good place to fill up on water and take a break. If you’re hiking in summer, then this may be your last chance for a break, as the next section of the hike I’ve nicknamed ‘horsefly ridge’. The climb is not only steep, but if you stop to catch your break for more than a second, then you’ll be surrounded by hoards of horseflies! Once you hit Kunimitōge (国観峠) though, the pesky creatures will have vanished and you can take a much needed respite. There used to be some sort of hut here a long time ago, and the area is perfect for camping (except for the lack of water). If you’re keen to camp here, then drop off your stuff and head up to the hut to fill up on water. Otherwise, continue climbing up toward the peak. The aforementioned hut will come into view in around a half hour or so, and it’s a nice place to stay if you can forget about the musty smelling carpet. The trail to the peak of Mt. Sobo is directly in front of the hut, and it should take around 10 minutes or so to reach the bald, rocky top. The views toward Mt. Aso and Mt. Kuju are fantastic. Take the necessary photos, pat yourself on the back for a job well done, and head back to the hut. If you’re staying for the night, relax and write in the hut logbook. If you haven’t had enough punishment, then take the trail branching off to the left toward Miyahara (宮原). The trail loses altitude rather quickly, and flattens out once you come to Uma-no-kata （馬の肩). In another 15 minutes or so, you’ll come to a trail junction. My map had this marked as a campground, but there’s only room for one tent and no water source. However, it didn’t stop me from setting up camp to escape an oncoming thunderstorm! At this junction, take the trail going right toward Obira (尾平). It should take about 90 minutes to reach the flat area of the trailhead, and you’ll cross a beautiful river with crystal clear water. There’s a shared taxi (reservation only) from Obira to Ogata station (緒方駅) and onward to Oita station.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but you’re in for a heck of a climb in the winter, so plan accordingly. The Azalia flowers bloom in early May, making this a popular destination during Golden Week. Beware of horseflies in the summer.

Access: From Oita station (大分駅), take a local train on the JR Hohi Line (豊肥本線) and get off at Bunko-Taketa station (豊後竹田駅). The train takes about an hour & 20 minutes. A limited express train, while costing more, will get you there in about an hour. From there, take a bus (reservation only) bound for Kamihara (神原).  A taxi will run you about 5750 yen. From Obira, you can take a taxi to Ogata station and onward to Oita station. Click here for more information about the taxi.

Digital Map in English (Avenza App): Click here

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change ~1100m)

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Mt. Jonen （常念岳）

March 3, 2008

This blog post was written back in 2008. For the latest information about this hike (including color photos and maps), please consider purchasing my guidebook to the Japan Alps. 

Mt. Jonen is a wonderful alpine peak located just across the valley from Hotaka mountain range and Kamikochi. Sunrise and sunset are magical.

Mt. Jonen

The hike: From the parking lot, walk 4 km on a heavily damaged forest road until reaching the trailhead at Hiedaira (ヒエ平). The road was completely washed out in flooding a few years ago, and if they’ve re-opened it then you can save 8km of easy round-trip hiking. The trail starts off quite flat, following the Ichinosawa (一ノ沢) river upstream to its source. You’ll cross a few tributaries coming off the right side before the real climb begins. It should take about 3 or 3-1/2 hours of hiking along the river before reaching the final steep climb to the ridge line. You’ll know you’ve reached the point when the trail crosses a tributary and starts switching back quite rapidly. Make sure you fill your water bottle at the stream. It should take about an hour of steep climbing before reaching the ridge. Ther’ll be a massive hut greeting you, with the trail to the top of Mt. Jonen branching off to the left. The hut is called Jonengoya (常念小屋) and it’s a good place for a snack break. There’s a descent sized campground here, as well as some toilets. The views toward Mt. Yari and Hotaka are stunning. From the hut, the trail zigzags for about an hour before reaching the summit. The views are incredible if the weather is clear. For some reason, the fog seems to come in very quickly on this shy peak. There are 2 trails branching off from the top, but head back to the hut unless you’d like to traverse onward to Kamikochi. You can either head back down the way you came, stay at the hut, or continue on the ridge line to either Mt. Tsubakuro or Mt. Yari. The extensive network of ridge trails make for an interesting couple of days exploring the beauty of the Kita Alps.

When to go: This hike is popular from Golden Week to early November. Although not impossible, a winter hike requires experience and equipment, but neighboring Mt. Tsubakuro (燕岳) is popular for winter climbing, so a ridge traverse is quite feasible.

Access: While there are a number of approaches to this peak (including from Kamikochi), the hike described here is only accessible by car or taxi, and the forest road may still be closed to vehicular traffic. The nearest station is Toyoshina (豊科駅), on the JR Ooito Line (大糸線) conecting Matsumoto to Hakuba stations. The forest road to the trailhead at Hiedaira (ヒエ平) was closed at the time of writing, which means you’ve got an extra 4km of hiking from the parking lot to the trailhead, so get an early start.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change ~1500m)

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Mt. Asahi （朝日岳）

February 28, 2008

Last updated: Feb 17, 2025

Mt. Asahi, in Yamagata Prefecture, is one of the most inaccessible peaks in Japan, and one of the most breathtakingly beautiful.

Mt. Asahi- Yamagata Pref.

The hike: From the hut at Koderakousen, take the trail heading towards Mt. Kodera (小寺山). The trail wastes no time in gaining elevation, and you’ll be happy for the abundance of fresh water if hiking in the summer. After about 2 hours of climbing, a trail will come in from the right. This leads to Hananukimine (ハナヌキ峰). Ignore this trail and keep climbing on the well maintained path. After another 30 minutes you’ll reach the top of Mt. Kodera. The views will start to open up, but the best is yet to come. Continue for another half hour or so toward Mt. Ko-asahi (小朝日岳). Just before the steep climb to the top, there’s a spur trail off to the right. Take this if you’re feeling lazy, but otherwise head to the top for a sweet view of Mt. Asahi stretching out in front of you. On the peak, the trail from Asahikousen joins this trail, so the number of people should increase somewhat. From here to Mt. Asahi, there’s only one trail and it’s well maintained. Drop steeply off the top of Mt. Ko-asahi, being careful not to slip and fall. After descending to the saddle, the ‘lazy’ spur trail I mentioned earlier will come in on the right. Continue climbing up and up for another 90 minutes or so, enjoying the multitude of alpine flowers along the way. Eventually, you’ll reach Dai-asahikoya (大朝日小屋). This is your home for the rest of the day, as watching the sunrise from “Sunrise Peak” is one of the main reasons for doing this hike. You can camp outside the hut, or stay for the measly sum of 1200 yen. The hut has no food or futons, so bring your own cooking gear and sleeping bag. There’s a water source a short distance away on a side trail. Wander up to the main peak if the weather’s good to watch the sunset. The next morning, wake up early so you don’t miss the action. In the summer, you need to be out of the hut around 3:45am if you want to get a good spot for the sunrise. It’s only a 10-minute hike from the hut to the top, so pack up your gear and take it with you. The sunrise, if the weather is good, will definitely alter your sense of Japanese beauty. The sun comes up behind Mt. Zao, and illuminates the ridge lines of Mt. Iide, Gas-san, Mt. Chokai, Mt. Bandai, and hundreds of other nameless peaks. No utility poles and no concrete anywhere to spoil the view. After taking in the scenery, follow the trail heading to the left, towards Asahikousen (朝日鉱泉). The trail drops quite steeply for the first hour or so, and then enters a beautiful virgin forest, eventually flattening out to follow an amazing river with crystal clear water. Follow the river for about 2 hours or so, and you’ll end up at the Asahikousen, one of the best mountain huts in Japan. Keep your eye out for Japanese mountain goats (Kamoshika), as there are a lot in this area. The owner of the hut is really friendly and makes one of the best bowls of soba in Japan, teeming with fresh organic mushrooms. Oh, and use the hot spring bath while your noodles are being prepared.

When to go: This mountain is completely inaccessible in the winter due to its remote location and the obscene amount of snow it gets. The roads usually open up again in late April, so go between then and early November, but for a snow-free experience, wait until July to complete the hike.

Access: From Yamagata station, take a local train on the JR “Fruits Line Aterazawa” line and get off at Aterazawa (左沢駅), the last stop. Trains are very infrequent, so check the schedule in advance. From the station, take a bus to Asahikousen（朝日鉱泉). The bus only runs from July 23-August 14, leaving Aterazawa station at 1:00pm and reservations are required. You can inquire about bookings when you reserve accommodation at Asahikousen lodge. Click here for the bus schedule. Another option would be to take a taxi to Koderakousen (小寺鉱泉), an alternative starting point for the hike. The taxi is not cheap, though. I did this hike after descending Gas-san, and hitchhiked all the way from there to Koderakousen, so that’s definitely an option for those without a car. The hike described here is a traverse from Koderakousen to Asahikousen, so you can take your pick of trails.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 1320m)

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Mt. Nasu (那須岳）

February 25, 2008

Mt. Nasu is an active volcano located on the border of Tochigi and Fukushima Prefectures. Popular with families and school trips, the mountain features picturesque scenery and a hut with its own hot spring!

Mt Nasu

The hike: From the parking lot you can either shell out your hard-earned money to take the gondola up to the top, or use the very easy, well-maintained path. I knew you’d opt for hiking! Hike up the paved road for a few minutes, and the trail will branch off to the left. The trail is easy to follow, and when I went I passed an entire elementary school class of 80 kids along the way! The trail really is more like a road for the initial climb. After about 40 minutes or so, you’ll hit the ridge line, and an emergency hut will be conveniently awaiting you. The hut is there in case Nasu decides to blow its nose on your journey, and staying in the hut is officially prohibited (you’re better off going to the hot spring hut anyway.) When you get to the hut, hang a left toward Mt. Chausu (茶臼岳). There are plenty of paint marks, so it’s nearly impossible to get lost, and after about 20 minutes the trail will meet up with the one from the gondola. This trail can become extremely crowded during weekends, so take a quick walk around the crater rim before descending back to the emergency hut. Once you’re back here, instead of going back down the mountain, head away from all of the crowds toward Mt. Asahi (朝日岳). It’s quite rocky in this section, so be careful of ice if you’re here in the winter. You should be sitting on top of Mt. Asahi in about 40 minutes or so, with an incredible view overlooking the crater of Mt. Chausu. Mt. Asahi is just a short spur from the main trail, so once on top head back down to the main trail. From this point, head yet further away from Mt. Chausu and the crowds. Your target is the official high point of the mountain, called Mt. Sanbonyari (三本槍岳). It should take about an hour or so from Mt. Asahi to reach the high point. Along the way, you’ll first find a trail branching off to the left, and then another one toward the right. Ignore both of these. As long as you follow the signposts to Sanbonyari then you’ll be ok. About halfway there, you’ll pass through a beautiful marsh area with some small lakes. Once you make it to the high point, break out your lunch an enjoy the scenery. Only the most hardcore hikers make it to this point, and it’ll be a pleasant change from the chaos at Mt. Chausu. From the high point, you have to retrace your footsteps all the way back to the parking lot! So much for a loop trail. However, if you’d like to check out the hot spring hut, then hang a right just before coming back to Mt. Asahi. I’ve never actually done this trail, but my friend insists the detour is worth it. Unfortunately , you’ll have to stay in the hut in order to use the hot spring. Check out this web site (in Japanese) for more info.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but be prepared for a bit of snow in the winter. The hot spring hut is open from April to December.

Access: From Ueno station in Tokyo, take either a Shinkansen bound for Koriyama or a local train and get off at Kuroiso station (黒磯駅). The local train takes almost 3 hours, but costs less than 3000 yen. If you take the Shinkansen, you’ll need to get off at Nasushiobara (那須塩原駅) and change to a local train to Kuroiso. From Kuroiso, take a bus bound for Nasudake-sanroku (那須岳山麓) and get off there. The bus takes about an hour. Click here for the schedule.

Map: Click here, and here

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change 537m)

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Mt. Yotei (羊蹄山）

February 22, 2008

Mt. Yotei, otherwise known as Mt. Shiribeshi (後方羊蹄山), is a shy, Fuji-esque volcano dominating the Niseko skyline, attracting hikers from all over Japan.

The crater of Mt. Yotei

The hike: If you’ve taken the bus, then you’ve got an annoying 30 minute hike on a paved road. Definitely try to hitch to the trailhead to save some energy. At the trailhead, there’s a toilet, small campground, and water source. Fill up your bottles, as this is the only place for water on the hike. The trail starts behind the toilets, not down the forest road in the parking lot. I attempted a night hike and got lost for hours by taking this deceptive looking path. In the daytime it’s a no-brainer, but at night take care. The trail starts off rather gentle and then starts climbing, with plenty of switchbacks and amazing views across the valley to Niseko ski resort. The mountain, like most volcanoes in Japan, is divided into 10 ‘stages’. You should reach the 6th stage (rokugoume-六合目) in around 2 hours after starting. From there, the trail continues to climb until eventually reaching the 9th stage (kyuugoume-九合目). You’ll reach a 3-way junction just before the crater rim. If you go right you’ll reach an emergency hut, but instead stay on the same trail you’ve been on and continue to the rim. The high point of Mt. Yotei is about halfway around the rim, marked by a small sign. It’s easy to find in sunny weather, but you might miss it if the cloud is in. Anyway, circumnavigate the crater, enjoying the abundance of wild flowers and spectacular views. Consider descending via the Makkari trail (真狩), a never-ending, knee-knocking decent that eventually ends in a huge campground. Or go back the same way you came.

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to early November, but the earlier you go, the more snow you’ll encounter. Some hardcore skiers & boarders climb in it in the winter, searching for fresh powder and clean runs. Yotei is notorious for nasty weather, so use caution on the decent if mother nature isn’t cooperating.

Access: There are 4 trails up the mountain, but I describe the one closest to Niseko. From Sapporo station, take a local train for about 90 minutes to Kucchan (倶知安) station. From there, take a bus to Yoteizan-tozanguchi (羊蹄山登山口). Click here for the bus schedule. Alternatively, you can take a taxi for about 3000 yen that’ll get you a little closer to the trailhead.

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change: ~1600m)

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Mt. Iwate （岩手山）

February 21, 2008

Last updated: Feb 6, 2025

Special note: Iwate is currently experiencing increased volcanic activity and is currently closed to hikers. Click here for more information. 

Mt. Iwate is a conically shaped active volcano, towering over Morioka city and offers one of the best panoramic views in the entire Tohoku area.

the view from Mt. Iwate

The hike: This is a long, long hike (about 21km round trip) so it’s imperative that you get an early start. Luckily there’s a incredible park near the trailhead at Kenmin no mori (県民の森). Officially camping is prohibited in the lush park but it’s much more inviting than the nearby campground, so just put up your tent behind the bushes or set up/break down at night. Anyway, the trailhead is NOT behind the park, so do not follow the dirt forest road toward Mt. Iwate or you’ll lose precious time like I did. Instead, walk down the hill a little to the right of the park (if facing the mountain) and walk up a paved road that leads to the trailhead. You should find it on your right-hand side after about 15 minutes or so. The maps in town are so confusing, so be careful. Anyway, this trail is called the nanataki course (七滝コース), and you’ll find the waterfall of the same name in about an hour. Now, this trail was officially closed to hikers in the summer of 2006 due to volcanic activity, but the trail is very clearly marked, so it looks like a lot of people ignore the signs and climb. After about 1-1/2 to 2 hours of hiking through the forest, the vegetation will start to thin out and you will find the first signs of volcanic activity. The ground will start to turn a lime green and you’ll notice a small, hot stream flowing down the mountain. Unfortunately the stream is too small to bath in, but you can soak your feet if you like. Follow this stream toward the right side and you’ll soon encounter steam vents puffing out volcanic gases. Make sure you stay on the trail and beware of loose rocks. Climbing is not much of a problem, but if you come back down this way be very careful on the decent. Anyway, as you climb higher, you’ll reach a junction where this trail meets the Matsukawa trail. You have two options. You can go right to take a ridge trail, or head left and follow a beautiful river. Take the left course and work your way toward the Mt. Iwate crater. The vegetation can be quite thick here, and if there’s any morning dew then you’ll get completely soaked from head to toe. After about 90 minutes of slogging, you’ll come to an emergency hut and a set of benches. This is at the base of the crater. Take a break and prepare yourself for the final ascent. If you’re running short of water then head down the trail away from the crater and there’s a second hut and water source there. The final climb is tough. You’ve just spent the last 4 or 5 hours climbing about 1400 vertical meters, and now the final 100m or so is on loose scree. For every step you take, you’ll lose about 2 or 3. Don’t give up yet though, because once you make it to the crater rim things become much easier. The high point is to your left, but consider walking all the way around the rim if the weather is good. The crater itself has stopped hissing and steaming, but the rock formations and gradation are wonderful. Take plenty of pictures and if you’re lucky, take in the panorama. On a clear day you can see Mt. Hayachine, Mt. Chokai, Gassan, Mt. Hachimantai, and Mt. Akita Koma ga Take. If you’re feeling exhausted, then you have two free emergency huts to choose from, as well as two alternate ways off the mountain. I went back exactly the way I came, because I left my huge backpack at the trailhead and carried only a small bum bag, water, and a camera on the hike.

When to go: This hike can be done from late April to early November, but the earlier you go, the more snow you’ll encounter. Because of the distance involved, summer is probably the best season because you’ll be blessed with plenty of daylight hours.

Access: There are only 2 trails accessible by public transport. If you’ve got a car, then you can consider approaching from the other, more popular side of the mountain. I hitchhiked from neighboring Mt. Hachimantai and ended up at Hachimantai Onsen (八幡平温泉郷). The Matsukawa trail from Matsukawa Onsen also looks promising. Both hot springs are accessible by bus from Morioka station. The most popular trail is called the Yakebashiri (焼走り) trail, reachable by taxi from Oobuke (大更) station near Morioka. Click here for the bus schedule to Matsukawa Onsen.

Map: Click here

Live web camera: Click here

Level of difficulty: 5 out of 5 (elevation change: ~1500m)

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Mt. Ibuki (伊吹山）

February 18, 2008

Last updated: September 2, 2024

Note: The main trail up Mt Ibuki (as described below) is currently undergoing restoration work and is closed to hikers. It is expected to open sometime in 2025.  If you would like to climb in 2024, consider taking the hiking bus from Maibara station. 

Mt. Ibuki is a bald turtle-shell shaped peak located near the city of Maibara on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest fresh water lake. It’s famous for wildflowers, and the panoramic view from the summit is nothing short of spectacular, if you are lucky enough to have a cloud-free day.

Hakusan, as seen from Mt. Ibuki

The hike: From the bus stop, walk up the road past the shrine, and you’ll see the trail leading into the forest. The trail starts off steep for the first 20 minutes or so, and then flattens out as you approach the top of the first ski lift. There are lots of run down buildings here that function as restaurants and ski rental shops during the short ski season. There’s a public toilet a short distance up the ski field, which is open all-year round. The water in the sink is safe to drink, and it’s your last chance for water before the summit. This is where the real hike begins, as the trail heads straight up through the resort. No switchbacks here. If the weather is good you might share the resort with a few para-gliders. After about and hour of steep climbing, you’ll reach the mid-point of the ski resort (and the top of the gondola). The trail will probably start to become more crowded, as the majority of hikers skip this first step and start the hike from here. Take a quick break, because you’ve still got over 600 vertical meters to climb before reaching the summit plateau. At first the hiking is quite gentle to the end of the ski lifts, where you’ll reach a hut selling refreshments. This is the 5th station (五合目). A little further up, you’ll find an immaculate emergency hut at the 6th station (六合目), which is free to stay in (but has no toilet or drinking water). From here until the top, it’s a series of never-ending switchbacks, but it really is enjoyable if the weather cooperates. You’ll have a panoramic view of Lake Biwa, and the views keep opening up as you get higher and higher. After a seemingly endless ascent, you’ll finally come to the summit plateau, and you might be a bit disappointed depending on when you come. During the week it can be quite deserted, but on weekends in the spring the top fills with flower enthusiasts, many of which DROVE to the top! You see, there’s a toll road and parking lot only 20 minutes from the summit. Actually, it’s not nearly as bad as it sounds because the road is on the other side of the mountain and doesn’t spoil the view at all. The one thing that does spoil the view, however, is the row of souvenir shops and microwave relay tower. Auggghhh! Why can’t Japan just leave the mountains to their natural beauty?! I must say, however, it pails in comparison to what’s been done on top of Mt. Fuji. Anyway, if the weather is clear then you can forget about all of the ugly buildings and enjoy one of the greatest panoramic views in Japan! (No lie). All of Lake Biwa stretches out to the west, as Hakusan dominates the northern horizon. The endless stretch of the Japan Alps are visible to the east, and the skyscrapers of Nagoya glitter to the southeast. Due south, the rolling sea of mountain ranges in Mie Prefecture majestically overlap themselves. If you need a can of soda or a toilet break, then knock yourself out. Take in the views, or shelter in the shops if the cloud is in. If you do this hike in the winter, then you can find yourself in complete solitude. Plus, the decrepit buildings are transformed into a weird sci-fi movie set when the cloud and snow come in. Anyway, head back down the same way you came up and don’t forget to check the bus schedule before you start your hike. I missed the last bus and had to hike over an hour back to the station!

When to go: This hike can be done from March to November. A winter ascent is only recommended for those with winter climbing experience, avalanche training, and the right equipment. However, thanks to global warming, the summit doesn’t receive quite nearly as much snow as in decades past, so you should be ok with just a light pair or crampons, even in February. (The ski resort is permanently closed now, due to lack of snow).

Access: From Kyoto, take the JR Tokai line to Maibara station, changing to a local train bound for Ogaki. Get off at Omi-nagaoka (近江長岡) and change to a bus bound for Ibukiyamatozanguchi. (伊吹山登山口). You can also approach from Nagoya. Click here for the bus schedule. You can also reach the trailhead by bus from Nagahama (長浜) station, but it’ll take a bit longer than the other bus. Click here for that bus schedule.

Live web cam: Click here

Map: Click here

Digital Map (Avenza App): Click here

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change: 1143m). If you drive to the top, then it’s a 1 out of 5 and very kid friendly.

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Mt. Ryokami (両神山）

February 17, 2008

Mt. Ryokami is an ancient, rocky peak sitting on the border of Gunma and Saitama Prefectures. The top offers wonderful panoramic views of the surrounding mountainous landscape and is a part of Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park.

Mt. Ryokami

The hike: From the bus stop, climb the stairs across the street to Ryokami Hut (両神山荘). This hut features a real kotatsu (the heater is a fire pit in the floor) and is a great place to rest after the hike while waiting for the bus. The trail goes to the left of the hut and climbs steeply past vegetable fields and enters a dense forest. During the first half an hour or so keep your eyes peeled for Kamoshika (Japanese Mountain Serow), as there are a few in this area. I saw one on the way back to the bus stop after completing the hike. Soon you’ll come to a trail junction. Both trails meet up after a few hours, but the one on your right isn’t well used, so stay on the main, well-trodden path. From this junction, it’s a gradual climb for the next 90 minutes or so in a shaded valley following a stream. The trail starts to get steeper and steeper, but you’ll have a nice big hut (清滝小屋) staring you in the face in next to no time. This hut has water and is a lovely place to stay, costing 5000 for 2 meals, or 3000 yen for a place to sleep only. (the hut is only open from April to November) Alternatively, you can camp nearby. Take a break here, as things are about to get rocky. The trail continues past the hut and then gets really steep. Some of the rock formations have chains embedded for ease of climbing. In about an hour of sweating it out you’ll reach a shrine and the trail will start to get much easier. From here to the top it’s just a matter of traversing a few “false summits”. There’s quite a bit of up and down, but a piece of cake compared to what you’ve been through. Eventually you’ll reach the true summit, marked by a signpost and a huge rock formation. Enjoy the panoramic views, with Mt. Asama staring you in the eyes, the Minami Alps and Yatsu-ga-dake to the Northeast, and Mt. Fuji poking its shy head up above Mt. Kumotori. Take a well deserved lunch break and head back the way you came. If you’d like to turn this into a 2-day hike then consider staying at the hut along the way or at the hut at the bus stop.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but bring crampons in the winter because it can get quite icy and the main trail sits in a shaded valley.

Access: From Ikebukuro station, take a train on the Seibu Line to Chichibu Station. From there, transfer to a bus bound for Hinata Ooya （日向大谷). You’ll more than likely have to change buses at Oganomachi Yakubamae (小鹿野役場前). The bus takes a little over an hour (about 15 minutes on the first bus, and then around 50 on the second). Click here for the bus schedule.

Map:

Level of difficulty: 3 out of 5 (elevation change: 1053m)

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Mt. Adatara (安達太良山）

February 14, 2008

Last updated: Feb 17, 2025

Mt. Adatara is an active volcano located across the valley from Mt. Bandai and is just a stone’s throw from Fukushima city. Beautiful rock formations and a lovely hut to boot.

adatop

The hike: From the ski resort parking lot, head toward the right hand group of buildings and start walking up the far right ski slope. The trail will branch off to the right and follow the ski resort for a short time before reaching a forest road. The trail crosses the road several times before heading up to a ridge and flattening out somewhat. All of this should take about 45 minutes or so. Continue following the gentle trail for another 15 or 20 minutes until you come to a junction. If you head left you follow a different ridge, but instead continue straight ahead for another half hour and you’ll come to the Kurogane Hut (くろがね小屋）This hut is open all year round and is an amazing place to stay in the winter. Plus, it has a hot spring bath! If you’re only coming for a day trip then take a quick break at the hut before starting the real climb to the summit. From the hut, the trail starts climbing rather steeply through rugged volcanic tundra. It should take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour to reach the summit. If the fog is in then keep an eye out for all of the paint marks on the rocks. Whiteout conditions in winter can be quite dangerous, so go with a group and bring bamboo poles to mark your path. The rocky summit offers spectacular views of the surrounding scenery: Mt. Bandai directly in front of you, Mt. Iide to the northeast, and Mt. Azuma, which is connected to this mountain by a long trail. (It could make for an interesting trek). Anyway, enjoy your lunch with hoards of other hikers who probably came up from the ski gondola on the other side of the mountain. If the weather is good and you’ve got time, you can hike to Mt. Tetsuzan, the true high point of the volcano, and there is a free emergency hut just beyond the summit of Tetsuzan. From the summit, follow the signs to Mt. Yakushi （薬師岳）and the ski resort. This side of the mountain is much easier (and more popular) than the route mentioned here, but makes for a nice look hike. You should reach the top of the ski resort in about 45 minutes from the top. If you’re too tired, then take the gondola down, but otherwise follow the path down back to the parking lot. In winter, you can glissade down the slopes in record time. This hike can also be done in reverse, and you could also use the gondola to cut out 400m of elevation gain.

When to go: This hike can be done year round, but be prepared for meters of snow in the winter (bring snowshoes or crampons). The fall colors in mid to late September bring the crowds.

Access: From Fukushima station, take a local JR train and get off at Nihonmatsu (二本松) station. From there take a bus to Adatara Kogen Ski Resort. Be sure to check the bus schedule (call 0243-23-0123 in Japanese), as some buses only go part of the way to Dake Onsen. It’s a quick 20 minute taxi ride or possible hitch from the Onsen, or you could shell out about 5000 yen for a taxi ride from Nihonmatsu all the way to the trailhead.  Click here for more information about the bus. In the summer of 2024, there was one bus a day to the trailhead, leaving from Nihonmatsu at 8:15am. Here is a flyer from last summer. The 2025 schedule hasn’t been released yet, so contact the bus company directly to inquire.

Map: Click here

Level of difficulty: 2 out of 5 (elevation change: 760m)

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